tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-31014256463666926252024-03-13T06:21:57.711-10:00Clayton Boyer TocksWooden clocks, kinetic sculptures, celestial instruments and sawdust.Lisa Boyerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00456582868505590514noreply@blogger.comBlogger186125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3101425646366692625.post-37577608670840449292023-12-29T12:02:00.000-10:002023-12-29T12:02:12.645-10:00Help! My Clock Runs too Slow (or too Fast)<p> <span class="ydp5f109244yiv6406804131ydpe178a9c9yiv0118198498ydpef95c370yiv8542065322ydpda6e89aayiv1024758125"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman", serif; font-size: 12pt;"><u>FOR A CLOCK THAT RUNS TOO SLOW</u></span></span><span class="ydp5f109244yiv6406804131ydpe178a9c9yiv0118198498ydpef95c370yiv8542065322ydpda6e89aayiv1024758125"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman", serif; font-size: 12pt;">...(but also be
sure to read over the section below on "For a clock that runs too
fast").</span></span><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman", serif; font-size: 12pt;"> </span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal" style="background: white;"><span class="ydp5f109244yiv6406804131ydpe178a9c9yiv0118198498ydpef95c370yiv8542065322ydpda6e89aayiv1024758125"><span style="color: black; font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><span id="ydp5f109244yiv6406804131ydpe178a9c9yiv0118198498ydpef95c370yiv8542065322ydpda6e89aayiv1024758125yui_3_16_0_1_1427139418310_7431">If
you have recently finished your clock and put it into beat and it's running too
slowly - I recommend you do nothing for four to six weeks.</span></span></span><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman", serif; font-size: 12pt;"> </span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal" style="background: white;"><span style="color: black; font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">Some time ago I got an email from a builder whose Simplicity ran
too slowly at first, he cut off the pendulum...only it was too soon. When
his clock eventually found its beat, it then ran too fast. I recommend
waiting a few weeks before shortening a pendulum shaft because it is much
easier to cut off a pendulum than to add to it.</span><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman", serif; font-size: 12pt;"> </span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal" style="background: white;"><span style="color: black; font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">Some clocks need to run a while before they find their
"beat". It is best to simply watch a new clock for a few weeks.
Stand back and enjoy viewing its motion, and congratulate yourself for
getting a chunk of wood to move. Just enjoy the movement.</span><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman", serif; font-size: 12pt;"> </span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal" style="background: white;"><span style="color: black; font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">If your clock still runs too slowly after it has run for a few
weeks, then you can begin to shorten the pendulum's shaft a little at a time,
until you get your clock running at the perfect beat.</span><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman", serif; font-size: 12pt;"> </span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal" style="background: white;"><span style="color: black; font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">But even before cutting off the pendulum, I would recommend that
you read over the "Depthing" procedure in my Troubleshooting Blog
posts and in my FAQ's, and follow those instructions. Depthing will help
to free up any residual internal friction in your clock and possibly make it
run more freely. The links to my Blog and FAQ's is at the bottom of my
main page.</span><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman", serif; font-size: 12pt;"> </span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal" style="background: white;"><span style="color: black; font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">You can also add just a slight bit of paraffin to the tooth
contact surfaces where the pinion and wheel teeth touch. Add just a very
slight amount - because too much paraffin can clog the dedendum and make the
clock stop. Candle wax works okay, but I like to use a color coordinated
Crayon. Crayon paraffin is softer than candle wax, and that sharp point
makes getting between the teeth much simpler.</span><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman", serif; font-size: 12pt;"> </span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal" style="background: white;"><span style="color: black; font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">You can also remove the pallets, wind your clock, and let the
gears run free. When the wheels stop, rewind the clock and let it run
free again a few times. Things get spinning pretty fast! But
sometimes this helps to "break in" the mechanism more quickly.</span><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman", serif; font-size: 12pt;"> </span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal" style="background: white;"><span style="color: black; font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">If/when you have done all of the above suggestions and your clock
is still running too slowly with the bob all the way up as high as it will go
on the pendulum; to determine how much of the pendulum to cut off you can
measure the threaded rod sticking out the bottom of the bob, and remove about
half that length from the pendulum's shaft...but be sure to wait a few weeks
before cutting the pendulum to give your clock time to 'break in' and find its
beat.</span><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman", serif; font-size: 12pt;"> </span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal" style="background: white;"><span style="color: black; font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><u>FOR A CLOCK THAT RUNS TOO FAST</u>...(but also read "For a clock
that runs too slow" above.)</span><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman", serif; font-size: 12pt;"> </span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal" style="background: white;"><span class="ydp5f109244yiv6406804131ydpe178a9c9yiv0118198498ydpef95c370yiv8542065322ydpda6e89aayiv1024758125"><span style="color: black; font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><span id="ydp5f109244yiv6406804131ydpe178a9c9yiv0118198498ydpef95c370yiv8542065322ydpda6e89aayiv1024758125yui_3_16_0_1_1427120966146_11256">If
you have just put your clock into beat, leave all alone and just enjoy the
movement for four to six weeks. Some clocks run fast, others too slowly
when first put into beat and they require a "break in" period to find
their beat. I recommend during this time to just stand proudly in front
of your clock and pat yourself on the back for doing such a good job of getting
a chunk of wood to move.</span></span></span><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman", serif; font-size: 12pt;"> </span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal" style="background: white;"><span class="ydp5f109244yiv6406804131ydpe178a9c9yiv0118198498ydpef95c370yiv8542065322ydpda6e89aayiv1024758125"><span style="color: black; font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><span id="ydp5f109244yiv6406804131ydpe178a9c9yiv0118198498ydpef95c370yiv8542065322ydpda6e89aayiv1024758125yui_3_16_0_1_1427120966146_11219">After
the break in period if your clock is still running too fast (and it depends
upon how fast) two things may be happening. If your clock is gaining
minutes a day, you can try to simply make the bob heavier, and/or lengthen the
pendulum by a few inches. If your clock is gaining hours a day, something
is probably slipping inside the clock's train and you'll need to investigate
further to find the broken, unglued, or unrestrained part.</span></span></span><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman", serif; font-size: 12pt;"> </span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal" style="background: white;"><span style="color: black; font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">Certain escapements, like the Graham, are not very sensitive to
drive weight, but others, like the grasshoppers and the "walking" on
the HO, and the verge and foliot on the Wee Willie and Horologium are quite
sensitive to drive weight. If your clock is running fast, try to decrease
the amount of drive weight. Also read the section on "Depthing"
on my site in my FAQ's and the four informative Troubleshooting posts in my
Blog. The links to these can be found at the bottom of my main page.</span><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman", serif; font-size: 12pt;"> </span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal" style="background: white;"><span class="ydp5f109244yiv6406804131ydpe178a9c9yiv0118198498ydpef95c370yiv8542065322ydpda6e89aayiv1024758125"><span style="color: black; font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><span id="ydp5f109244yiv6406804131ydpe178a9c9yiv0118198498ydpef95c370yiv8542065322ydpda6e89aayiv1024758125yui_3_16_0_1_1427120966146_11326">As
I mentioned, if you just put your clock into beat, it is best to not do
anything for a few weeks except enjoy the movement. After that time
you'll want to check the bob weight by adding fish weights evenly on each side
of the bob, and/or increase the pendulum's length depending upon how fast the
clock is running.</span></span></span><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman", serif; font-size: 12pt;"> </span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal" style="background: white;"><span class="ydp5f109244yiv6406804131ydpe178a9c9yiv0118198498ydpef95c370yiv8542065322ydpda6e89aayiv1024758125"><span style="color: black; font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><span id="ydp5f109244yiv6406804131ydpe178a9c9yiv0118198498ydpef95c370yiv8542065322ydpda6e89aayiv1024758125yui_3_16_0_1_1427120966146_11320">Take
a look at my Attempt for an easy way to add length to a pendulum.</span></span></span><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman", serif; font-size: 12pt;"> </span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal" style="background: white;"><span class="ydp5f109244yiv6406804131ydpe178a9c9yiv0118198498ydpef95c370yiv8542065322ydpda6e89aayiv1024758125"><span style="color: black; font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><span id="ydp5f109244yiv6406804131ydpe178a9c9yiv0118198498ydpef95c370yiv8542065322ydpda6e89aayiv1024758125yui_3_16_0_1_1427120966146_11386">Also,
you'll want to do all of this where the clock will actually be permanently
mounted. It's weird, but sometimes just moving the clock from the shop to
the house can cause the clock to run faster or slower (I have no explanation as
to why, but it has happened a few times to my own clocks).</span></span></span><span style="background-color: transparent;"> </span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span class="ydp1350c2c9yiv6406804131ydpe178a9c9yiv0118198498ydpef95c370yiv8542065322ydpda6e89aayiv1024758125"><span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">Enjoy!</span></span> </p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span class="ydp1350c2c9yiv6406804131ydpe178a9c9yiv0118198498ydpef95c370yiv8542065322ydpda6e89aayiv1024758125"><span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">Aloha. Clayton</span></span><span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><o:p></o:p></span></p>Lisa Boyerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00456582868505590514noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3101425646366692625.post-38229746188655321532023-09-13T08:02:00.002-10:002023-09-13T08:07:28.871-10:00Relative Seasonal Stability of Various Woods used for Pendulums<p><i><span style="font-size: medium;"><b>Question from reader: How accurate is your Number Six Clock?</b></span></i></p><p>My Number Six clock is quite accurate. It is usually nearly spot on, but sometimes can run within about a minute or two a day depending on ambient atmospheric changes.</p><p>If you maintain a constant heat and humidity in your home, a pendulum clock will maintain better accuracy. If your home has huge heat and cooling swings, or huge changes from humid to dry air, then any pendulum clock will also show less accuracy, this even includes clocks with metal pendulums.</p><p>The pendulum is the timing unit of any clock. A clock's accuracy is determined by the pendulum, and not by the gears. However, the stability of the material used for the pendulum can affect the clocks accuracy.</p><p>A very stable wood used for a pendulum shaft is going to be a more accurate pendulum than a wood that changes a lot with changes in the ambient heat and humidity. So if accuracy is top of mind, we would like to know the "Relative Seasonal Stability" of the woods we choose for our pendulum.</p><p>The way the wood is cut from the tree also has an effect on the stability of the final pendulum.</p><p>There are three ways wood is cut from a log; 1) Flatsawn (AKA Plain Sawn), 2) Riftsawn & 3) Quartersawn. The stability of the final product from those cuts is also in that same order.</p><p>Flatsawn (the kind of wood that most of us have readily available) has the least stability to changes in heat and humidity. Riftsawn is quite stable and can give better results when used as a pendulum, but the very most stable cut of wood is the Quartersawn. Here is a picture that describes the three different ways wood is cut from a log.</p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiRJnKJ9ntqaKkte1eq6iV5-FBRt0kuGQuj0Rh_Sd2MOqn-f8gErrNCoVywSV1MTOXFEOqnYburrdKrulmbJ7JeOGaIFf6bUDKByRRUTNIX3KdlfhP3HJkFhmfhpD3h_RlJh3m6ZxFYpXF-k096h97q_zzEEAjsGV9JtJW-9EEpyzUG5etd0zlJbD9yRL43/s801/Sawn%20Wood.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="360" data-original-width="801" height="288" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiRJnKJ9ntqaKkte1eq6iV5-FBRt0kuGQuj0Rh_Sd2MOqn-f8gErrNCoVywSV1MTOXFEOqnYburrdKrulmbJ7JeOGaIFf6bUDKByRRUTNIX3KdlfhP3HJkFhmfhpD3h_RlJh3m6ZxFYpXF-k096h97q_zzEEAjsGV9JtJW-9EEpyzUG5etd0zlJbD9yRL43/w640-h288/Sawn%20Wood.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br /><p></p><p>With that being said, even Flat or Plain Sawn wood make excellent pendulums because the grain of the wood is almost assuredly going vertically throughout the entire length of the pendulum. Flat or Plain Sawn wood has about the same stability to atmospheric changes as a solid metal rod.</p><p>Flat or Plain Sawn wood make excellent pendulums, and except for some plywood pendulums, Flat Sawn wood is generally the only type that I ever use on any of my clocks.</p><p>Here is a chart that shows the relative stability of wood by species and cut. Since most of use can only get (or afford) Plain/Flat Sawn wood, compare the examples of White Oak (9.1) and and Honduras Mahogany (4.1). The Flatsawn Mahogany has more than twice the Relative Seasonal Stability of the Oak.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgvN-lREiZI307aX-hH0TkV2fisRYsaRgcH7pp1Bu0Z8p9L8cz31-qWh8VtaZbK7baJQ6FYltrM5StUgiuxabJFLzhgISm_Ha8ZITsoBMEXOvhfVYmd-rc-IUJEfNtoawZPTQhMEzg5N4WlvjJnLM4wi_dtw9qPWBbaJUSiqjltZS61Ek1isQzxumMXHHeH/s834/Chart.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="834" data-original-width="511" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgvN-lREiZI307aX-hH0TkV2fisRYsaRgcH7pp1Bu0Z8p9L8cz31-qWh8VtaZbK7baJQ6FYltrM5StUgiuxabJFLzhgISm_Ha8ZITsoBMEXOvhfVYmd-rc-IUJEfNtoawZPTQhMEzg5N4WlvjJnLM4wi_dtw9qPWBbaJUSiqjltZS61Ek1isQzxumMXHHeH/s16000/Chart.jpg" /></a></div><p></p><p>So according to this chart if you had a choice of Oak or Mahogany, and you were shooting for the best accuracy from your pendulum, you would absolutely prefer your pendulum being made from a close grained wood such as Mahogany.</p>Lisa Boyerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00456582868505590514noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3101425646366692625.post-439614769431070342022-10-01T11:54:00.003-10:002022-10-01T13:03:37.301-10:00Graham Escapement with Pendulum Adjustments<p style="text-align: left;">Builder Joe has a question about Graham escapements:</p><p style="text-align: left;"><span style="background-color: white; color: #26282a; font-family: inherit;"><i>I have another question regarding my pendulum slowly stopping. In your FAQ (on our website):</i></span></p><p style="text-align: justify;"><span style="background-color: #ffffcc; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">"Now when you get to the escape wheel, put the wheel in with the pallet arbor. When the pallets are in proper position, gently restrain the pallets with your finger on the arbor. Now turn the escape wheel. It should first push one of the pallets out of the way, and this will cause the other pallet to come into contact with another escape wheel tooth. Keep turning the escape wheel and the pallets should gently rock back and forth."</span></span></p><p style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><i>Should the pendulum be on it? I have tried without the pendulum, but I can’t get the pallets to keep rocking.</i></span></p><p style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><i>Thanks again, Joe</i></span></p><p style="text-align: justify;">Clayton answers:</p><div dir="ltr">The entry in the FAQ's describes a <i>manual test</i> of a Graham escapement. It is a check designed to let you determine if the pallets and escape teeth interact correctly all the way around the escape wheel. </div><div dir="ltr"><br /></div><div dir="ltr">However, what is described there is only a manual test. Once the pendulum and the drive weights are added and the clock is put into motion, we introduce inertia that will cause the pallets and escape wheel to interact differently than described in that manual test. In a working clock the pendulum's inertia will move the pallets further than will happen during the manual test described in the FAQ's. The drive weights will cause the escape wheel to move faster than it does during the manual test.</div><div dir="ltr"><br /></div><div dir="ltr">Slowly moving the escape wheel by hand, and restricting the pallet arbor, should give your Graham pallets a nice rocking movement as the escape teeth move gently from one pallet <b>face</b> to the next pallet <b>face</b>. Manually restricting the pallet arbor as described in the FAQ's, the pallet<b> arms</b> should not be involved. </div><div dir="ltr"><div class="img-preview-wrapper"><span class="img-dl-btn" style="background: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.6); border-radius: 2px; border: 1px solid rgb(130, 140, 147); left: 784px; opacity: 0.0001; position: absolute; top: 618.484px;"><button class="c27KHO0_n b_0 M_0 i_0 I_T y_Z2hYGcu A_6EqO r_P C_q cvhIH6_T P_eo6" data-test-id="icon-btn-download" style="-webkit-tap-highlight-color: transparent; appearance: none; border-color: initial; border-style: initial; border-width: 0px; cursor: pointer; font-family: YahooSans, "Helvetica Neue", "Segoe UI", Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 13px; line-height: 0; margin: 0px; padding: 4px;" tabindex="-1" title="Download" type="button"><span class="D_F ab_C gl_C W_6D6F" style="align-items: center; display: flex; justify-content: center; width: 20px;"><svg class="D_X W_6LEV H_6LEV cdPFi_ZkbNhI cZW7ROP_n en_0 cvhIH6_T" viewbox="0 0 20 20"><path d="M16.8 13.5c-.4 0-.8.3-.8.8v1.2H4v-1.3c0-.4-.3-.7-.7-.7s-.8.3-.8.8v2c0 .4.3.7.8.7H17c.4 0 .5-.3.5-.7v-2c0-.5-.3-.8-.7-.8zM9.5 13.1c.3.2.7.2.9 0l3.9-3.6c.3-.3.3-.7 0-1-.1-.1-.3-.2-.5-.2l-2.3.5V3.1c0-.3-.3-.6-.6-.6H9.1c-.3 0-.6.3-.6.6v5.7l-2.3-.5c-.2 0-.3 0-.5.2-.3.3-.3.7 0 1l3.8 3.6z"></path></svg></span></button></span></div><br /><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiT6ONg8RATOqWksgLSkVCcBxRVEgptI9CYfgZqvLXCgHuunom6bSiCp3Qn7hexX6rpBJsrBMKTYePCh3FFHPG4VZHyGDfvZuT4DlecAirKO8ih1jRZeVGQ6B5-4XxXgGBRiUaBK4Wtmovw4lvE_PjtMJVzZKg4OiE3SdXYTL7L80KDzK5nuRI6TAM0ZA/s995/thumbnail.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="421" data-original-width="995" height="270" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiT6ONg8RATOqWksgLSkVCcBxRVEgptI9CYfgZqvLXCgHuunom6bSiCp3Qn7hexX6rpBJsrBMKTYePCh3FFHPG4VZHyGDfvZuT4DlecAirKO8ih1jRZeVGQ6B5-4XxXgGBRiUaBK4Wtmovw4lvE_PjtMJVzZKg4OiE3SdXYTL7L80KDzK5nuRI6TAM0ZA/w640-h270/thumbnail.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div dir="ltr"><br /></div><div dir="ltr">But when the weights and pendulum are added and the pallet arbor free to move, as in a fully functioning clock, more movement is introduced into the mechanism and the pallets are not now stopped by the their faces, but instead are stopped by the side of the pallet's arm.</div><div dir="ltr"><br /></div><div dir="ltr">The FAQ check is a manual check of the escapement. It is something you can do to test function while the clock is being assembled and laying on its back on your workbench.<br /></div><div dir="ltr"><br /></div><div dir="ltr">However, the actual movement of a fully functional escapement with drive weights and pendulum will be different.</div><div dir="ltr"><br /></div><div dir="ltr">Here is how a fully functioning Graham escapement works...</div><div dir="ltr"><br /></div><div dir="ltr">The pallets are first stopped by the side of the pallet arm. The escape wheel is held completely still by the side of the pallet arm until the pendulum has completed its motion and reversed its direction. Then the escape tooth is released from the pallet's arm and the tooth slides across the pallet's face - giving impulse to the pendulum, and simultaneously causing the next pallet arm to enter between the teeth, which puts the opposite pallet arm in the way of the escape tooth on the other side of the escape wheel.</div><div dir="ltr"><br /></div><div dir="ltr"><br /></div><div dir="ltr"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhXDRGPJRVRS2zXJp8XepA31pPFPNcPxsqpURN8yF3gCmLdPhcB55l0Jg7UY9O1EwgSJfBnsYiSy3pMqHgcCiHoFLr9Nfvil3JsWfWxtDFrOYwovhCtwz2DU54ci4OOS8AjcVfcX7_3oPSweUVJolnwXWSl3L-YrS0d-ebCnC1IpnFNR-CSoFI2Y8hIvQ/s1050/thumbnail%20(1).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="895" data-original-width="1050" height="546" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhXDRGPJRVRS2zXJp8XepA31pPFPNcPxsqpURN8yF3gCmLdPhcB55l0Jg7UY9O1EwgSJfBnsYiSy3pMqHgcCiHoFLr9Nfvil3JsWfWxtDFrOYwovhCtwz2DU54ci4OOS8AjcVfcX7_3oPSweUVJolnwXWSl3L-YrS0d-ebCnC1IpnFNR-CSoFI2Y8hIvQ/w640-h546/thumbnail%20(1).jpg" width="640" /></a></div>With an understanding of the step-by-step motion of a Graham escapement explained, in the video below we can actually see it all happening.<br /><div class="img-preview-wrapper"><br /></div><div class="img-preview-wrapper"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><iframe allowfullscreen='allowfullscreen' webkitallowfullscreen='webkitallowfullscreen' mozallowfullscreen='mozallowfullscreen' width='320' height='266' src='https://www.blogger.com/video.g?token=AD6v5dwIKGc5bA6EzUCkt-WArC492RMO9Q_eulnOAyVTU2p0zhngi6xw4hcBdvpBHl5n7Sd9oV2MKttK2-bZi8IJrw' class='b-hbp-video b-uploaded' frameborder='0'></iframe></div><br /><div class="img-preview-wrapper">If your pendulum is slowly coming to a stop, there are a few issues that need to be addressed.</div></div><div dir="ltr"><br /></div><div dir="ltr">First, do you have enough drive weight to power your clock? Every clock is different and will have its own minimal drive weight requirement. Check out my Blog post on Drive Weight for a way to determine just how much drive weight your specific clock actually needs. <span style="font-family: "times new roman", "new york", times, serif; font-size: 16px;">(link to my blog is at the bottom of the main page)</span></div><div dir="ltr"><br /></div><div dir="ltr">But what if you find that your clock needs excessive drive weight to power it?</div><div dir="ltr"><br /></div><div dir="ltr">If your clock is in need of excessive drive weight, the second issue to be addressed is the depthing of each wheel set in the clock's train. This Depthing procedure is described in detail in the Troubleshooting section of my Blog </div><div dir="ltr"><br /></div><div dir="ltr">The third issue to be addressed is a test specifically for the action of the pendulum/pallets and crutch. For this test you will want to remove the escape wheel from the system as we will only be testing the pendulum/pallets/crutch assembly, and all of their associated arbors, and spacers. </div><div dir="ltr"><br /></div><div dir="ltr">With the escape wheel removed from the system, but with all of the parts of the pendulum, pallets and crutch still working together, pull the pendulum's bob about three or four inches to one side and let it go.</div><div dir="ltr"><br /></div><div dir="ltr">The pendulum/pallet/crutch assembly should continue to rock for at least 60 seconds before stopping. And 90 seconds is even better.</div><div dir="ltr"><br /></div><div dir="ltr">If your pendulum does not continue to oscillate for at least 60 seconds, we need to find out why. We need to find what is restricting the movement of the system.</div><div dir="ltr"><br /></div><div dir="ltr">One of the most common reasons is that the groove that the knife edge of the pendulum pivot sits in has been carved too deeply. That groove should be about 1/32" (.75mm) deep. A too-deep groove will add excessive friction to the knife edge of the pendulum and restrict its freedom of motion. (this does not apply to the clock designs using bearing packs)</div><div dir="ltr"><br /></div><div dir="ltr">Another area that should be checked is the interaction of the crutch pin and crutch. </div><div dir="ltr"><br /></div><div dir="ltr">If the crutch pin fits too tightly into the slot in the crutch, the binding friction will stop the clock. </div><div dir="ltr"><br /></div><div dir="ltr">If the crutch pin fits too sloppily into the slot in the crutch, the impulse from the pallets will not be transferred to the pendulum, and the clock will stop.</div><div dir="ltr"><br /></div><div dir="ltr">The crutch pin should fit in the crutch slot and be free, but not sloppy. As a measuring tool, you should just be able to slip the corner of a sheet of paper between the crutch pin and the side of the crutch slot.</div><div dir="ltr"><br style="background-color: white; color: #26282a; font-family: "times new roman", "new york", times, serif; font-size: 16px;" /></div><div style="background-color: white; color: #26282a; text-align: left;"><div><br /></div></div>Lisa Boyerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00456582868505590514noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3101425646366692625.post-52011994139308472572022-09-04T09:35:00.003-10:002022-09-04T09:35:33.543-10:00Pendulum Physics<p> <i>Clayton,</i></p><p><i>In your written instructions for the Mantis clock you say to slow the time adjust the Bob up and to speed the clock turn the Bob down. Isn’t this backwards?</i></p><p><i>I thought to slow the clock you make the pendulum longer and shorter to speed it up. </i></p><p><i>Thanks, Cal</i><i> </i></p><p>Cal, your query got me thinking that I should create a blog post explaining about the various types of pendulums and hopefully make their action simpler to understand.</p><p>There are basically three pendulum arrangements used in modern clockmaking. These are shown in the Pendulums jpg below. It is important to notice first that "0" is the pivot point.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjylPDmju0R_5chssz4C0tyRfLhpoLa7Wafw39DF0cdDFPVjCf85I1jvvUuEsZHjvYidVyamNPO4pV_8YhgPIjuPm7yxMCNufmbGppbeiHv471Na1aspwCXQJ4MPuHbny64bEqeiWAVH1XiTILWCIEEMsAoFOlRUV6FOhNZAMYJVH1PmRI92ebmsY68OA/s554/pentypes.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="554" data-original-width="538" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjylPDmju0R_5chssz4C0tyRfLhpoLa7Wafw39DF0cdDFPVjCf85I1jvvUuEsZHjvYidVyamNPO4pV_8YhgPIjuPm7yxMCNufmbGppbeiHv471Na1aspwCXQJ4MPuHbny64bEqeiWAVH1XiTILWCIEEMsAoFOlRUV6FOhNZAMYJVH1PmRI92ebmsY68OA/w389-h400/pentypes.jpg" width="389" /></a></div><p>Fig 31 shows a standard straight hanging "simple" pendulum with the pivot at the top. Most of my clock designs use this type of pendulum. It's fairly simple to understand. If we raise the bob, it speeds the clock. If we lower the bob, it slows the clock. The longer the pendulum shaft, and the lower the bob, the slower this type of pendulum will oscillate. We can also slow the oscillation of the clock by increasing the mass of the bob. With this style of pendulum, a very short pendulum shaft, or very light bob, will oscillate much faster.</p><p>Fig 32 shows a compound balance pendulum. This is the style of pendulum used on the Mantis, Celebration, Balance, Organic and SwingTime and others. Compound balance pendulums have the most variation, and are the most difficult to understand...but are pretty cool, because of their versatility. For example, we could create a compound balance pendulum that is very short, say only 15 inches (38cm) tall, to take the place of a standard "simple" pendulum (Fig 31) that would need to be 42 inches (107cm) long. Of course, we can make our compound balance pendulum shorter than 15", but the shorter we make them, the touchier, and more difficult to adjust it would become. I saw one metal clock with a compound balance pendulum that was only three inches (7.5cm). However, that's a bit unrealistic for our wooden mechanisms.</p><p>Fig 33 shows the pendulum arrangement used on the Toucan and Arts&Crafts clocks. There is a stationary bob at the bottom of the pendulum shaft, and an adjustable bob between the stationary bob and the pivot. Although it is a variant of the compound pendulum, this type pendulum works much like the pendulum in Fig 31. Raise the bob (or lighten it) to speed the beat, and lower the bob (or add more bob weight) to slow the clock's beat.</p><p>This morning I was sitting on the couch reading a book and it hit me how to answer your question and explain a compound balance pendulum's action. It all has to to with what is called "Restoring Force". The force exerted on the pendulum by gravity.</p><p>With a heavier bob on the bottom of the pendulum shaft, there is more restoring force on the bottom. That's simple to imagine. (we will not be concerned here with oscillations - only the effects that gravity has on the restoring force of the pendulum)</p><p>Think about a pendulum that pivots in the center, like the pendulum example that is shown in Fig 32. But in our example here, instead of the pendulum being vertical, think of it horizontally. (if you want a visual, simply turn the Pendulums jpg 90 degrees and look at Fig 32)</p><p>With the pendulum shaft being held horizontally, add a stationary, immovable weight at the very end of one side of the shaft, and then add a heavier, adjustable weight to the other side. Don't let go of it yet. Keep holding it horizontally. If you move that heavier bob inwardly toward the pivot until it balances with the lighter, stationary bob at the other end, the pendulum has no restoring force. You can let it go and the pendulum stays at rest horizontally.</p><p>With that same horizontal pendulum arrangement in mind, move the heavier bob down the shaft away from the pivot just a fraction of the distance so that the pendulum is no longer perfectly balanced. Let it go and the pendulum will begin to move. The heavier side moves down toward the floor, and the lighter side moves up toward the ceiling. You can imagine that if the imbalance is very slight that the movement of the heavier side toward vertical is quite slow.</p><p>In a second experiment, holding the pendulum at balance horizontally, move the heavier bob all the way out to the extreme end of the pendulum shaft, and let the pendulum go. The pendulum will now move quite fast to the vertical position (and overshoot vertical, thus the pendulum will oscillate a while. But we are not concerned with oscillations here. We are only concerned with the speed at which restoration takes place.)</p><p>In the first example with the heavier, adjustable bob essentially raised up (in) toward the pivot, the pendulum has little restoring force and moves slowly to a vertical position. (thus, when lower adjustable bob is raised it causes slower restoration)</p><p>In the second example with the bob lowered toward the bottom end of the shaft, the pendulum quickly moves under the influence of gravity to the vertical position. (thus, when we lower the adjustable bob further from the pivot it causes faster restoration).</p><p>Since Mantis has a compound balance pendulum, as shown in Fig. 32, by raising the bob up toward the pivot the motion of the pendulum is slowed.</p><p>We can also slow the Mantis pendulum another way; by lightening the lower bob. A lighter lower adjustable bob has less restoring force.</p><p>SwingTime and Organic have compound balance pendulums also, however unlike the adjustable lower bob of the Mantis, their lower bob mass is not adjustable and stays constant. On these clocks the upper bob is the bob used to adjust the beat. Fortunately, the same "Restoring Force" physics apply whether you are adjusting the upper bob or the lower bob. On a pendulum with a constant weight below the pivot, if we raise the bob that is above the pivot we slow the beat of the clock...alternatively, we could simply make the upper bob heavier. In this case of an upper adjustable bob, both a heavier bob or raising the upper bob have the same effect on the restoring force of the pendulum.</p><p>One more, just for fun. I created a clock that is yet another variation of Fig 33. This clock is ALL pendulum. The only part that is not pendulum is the wall mount. Everything else is contained in or on the pendulum. I call this clock "Minimalist."</p><p><br /></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgF3m2sDHqbS4tid5-LSLkRRckScH8WopfU1lZ45Z9BPmg54fGURCMpLr16aDrnBVayiIEkUs05SfPWJN0HX3JOgbCAaZ5iEt8K2mgBz5jD9ggGSQ9sDsmzahQ6tSiGp0_OK4WNyRUyrVHVvk9uTDZsSHQyjbmTuM0AYmZZlZpw6ffGMSYWpSYaDB7Y5g/s888/clockpen.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="888" data-original-width="356" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgF3m2sDHqbS4tid5-LSLkRRckScH8WopfU1lZ45Z9BPmg54fGURCMpLr16aDrnBVayiIEkUs05SfPWJN0HX3JOgbCAaZ5iEt8K2mgBz5jD9ggGSQ9sDsmzahQ6tSiGp0_OK4WNyRUyrVHVvk9uTDZsSHQyjbmTuM0AYmZZlZpw6ffGMSYWpSYaDB7Y5g/s16000/clockpen.jpg" /></a></div><br /><p></p><p>Since the clockworks is integrated into the pendulum we have a compound balance pendulum that is similar to the Toucan or Arts&Crafts, except that in this case the center bob (the clockworks) is stationary, and the lower bob is the adjustment for the beat.</p><p>Because of the clock being integrated into the pendulum, the mass of the pendulum has increased and thus we need lower the bob with a longer pendulum shaft than would normally be the case. Most of my "Simple" seconds pendulums are around 42" (107cm) from pivot to center of the bob. The Minimalist pendulum requires about 63" (160cm) to give a seconds beat. My purpose for this clock was to stretch out and thin down the overall appearance of the mechanism. Integrating the clockworks into the pendulum allowed me to do just that.</p><p>Thin, slim and streamlined, Minimalist is a lovely clockworks with a unique pendulum.</p>Lisa Boyerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00456582868505590514noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3101425646366692625.post-24440456919669758082022-09-04T08:29:00.004-10:002022-09-04T08:29:48.872-10:00Daisy Dial Train Puzzle<p><span style="font-family: inherit;"><i>Dear Clayton,</i> <i> <span style="color: #26282a;">I have a small issue with the Daisy Dial Train on my Mantis. The
hour hand consistently stops at about 4:00. It happens pretty much every time
that the hour hand attempts to pass roundabout 4:00.</span><span style="color: #26282a;"> </span></i></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><i><span style="color: #26282a;">Since this is consistent, I figure that there is probably a
known solution, and maybe this is common.</span><span style="color: #26282a;"> </span></i></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><i><span style="color: #26282a;">The only item that comes so mind for me is the balance of the
hour hand. If the hour hand isn’t well balanced, and the short end of the hour
hand is heavier, this might explain the consistent stopping at 4:00. Thoughts?</span><span style="color: #26282a;"> </span></i></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="color: #26282a;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><i>Just wondering about this. Since it’s so consistent, maybe you
have a quick solution?</i></span></span><span style="color: #26282a; font-family: inherit;"> </span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="color: #26282a;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">Clayton's response: Aloha. I'm happy
to help. As you know, the Daisy Dial Train is such a wonderful and unique
part of many of my designs - Radiance, Mantis, Balance, SwingTime, Tempo - all
use the Daisy Dial Train. It is such an excellent dial train for
very quickly setting the hands to the correct time.</span></span><span style="color: #26282a; font-family: inherit;"> </span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="color: #26282a;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">I think your guess is
a good one about the Hour Hand's counterweight end being just a bit heavy, and
that should be checked out. </span></span><span style="color: #26282a; font-family: inherit;"> </span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="color: #26282a;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">Checking a hand's
balance is easily tested by removing the hand and running a rod through the
center hole of the hand and giving it a spin. When the hand stops
spinning, the heavy part of the hand will be pointing at the floor. Then
to balance, remove some wood from the back of the heavy end, or add some weight
to the counterweight end. </span></span><span style="color: #26282a; font-family: inherit;"> </span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="color: #26282a;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">However...my first
thought was not of the Hour Hand counterweight. It was instead of the
Daisy itself and its interaction with the pins coming out the back of the
Tri.</span></span><span style="color: #26282a; font-family: inherit;"> </span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="color: #26282a;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">A most common cause of
the Daisy Dial Train not working properly at first is that the pins get stuck
on the Daisy's bump as they are trying to pass over. Once the reason is
found and fixed, the Daisy can continue to give decades of flawless motion.</span></span><span style="color: #26282a; font-family: inherit;"> </span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="color: #26282a;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">This sticking of the
pin on a bump can be caused by a too-large, or unsmooth bump. Or it could
be that the drilled dowel, that is the Cam of the Minute Hand, does not have
enough lift to get the Tri's pin smoothly over the bump. Here is a
screenshot from the bottom of the Minute Hand assembly page that
explains... </span></span></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="color: #26282a;"></span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjiwIZuCYVCZLgLu_1gqj9AG2UMbfsZSWvRb9LN8bYmtDqsKpujcBmGffpso2DwDCHhK5zwnEgxvTSK4jfOg6cirhW5qEV7SRopgfELAPuR1TnfgMGHaz2qYXd64MX8SmHJUHdJ8bqBchfRC29XEDXpFxr8jhMP0ZM7hxR-Z29ovVLOrn8qCNWRvjLIjw/s854/dowel.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="384" data-original-width="854" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjiwIZuCYVCZLgLu_1gqj9AG2UMbfsZSWvRb9LN8bYmtDqsKpujcBmGffpso2DwDCHhK5zwnEgxvTSK4jfOg6cirhW5qEV7SRopgfELAPuR1TnfgMGHaz2qYXd64MX8SmHJUHdJ8bqBchfRC29XEDXpFxr8jhMP0ZM7hxR-Z29ovVLOrn8qCNWRvjLIjw/w400-h180/dowel.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span><p></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="color: #26282a;"><o:p><span style="font-family: inherit;"> </span></o:p></span><span style="color: #26282a; font-family: inherit;">Alternatively, an Hour
Hand consistently getting stuck at one point on the dial could be something as
simple as the Daisy bump needing a bit of lubricant.</span><span style="color: #26282a; font-family: inherit;"> </span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="color: #26282a;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">Since it is such a
simple thing to investigate, that is where I'd begin looking.</span></span><span style="color: #26282a; font-family: inherit;"> </span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="color: #26282a;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">I'd first see what
pin/bump is getting caught upon (there may be two of the three pins each caught
on a bump), then I'd get out my color-coordinated Crayon and add a little
paraffin to the offending bump and pin. It wouldn't hurt to put a bit of
paraffin on each of the bumps and each of the pins. And then back off the
Allen screw and leather plug and give the Minute Hand a spin like I show in the
attached video.<o:p></o:p></span></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="color: #26282a;"><o:p><span style="font-family: inherit;"> </span></o:p></span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><iframe allowfullscreen='allowfullscreen' webkitallowfullscreen='webkitallowfullscreen' mozallowfullscreen='mozallowfullscreen' width='320' height='266' src='https://www.blogger.com/video.g?token=AD6v5dw8XH2Fz0_OJOlC6uuKZEjoLBmtT0aRsEqRWLZb764mvDnYo9gqGPuNMbeRS0DiUMoinzEHl1QAh68qN6xGHA' class='b-hbp-video b-uploaded' frameborder='0'></iframe></span></div><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span><p></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="color: #26282a;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">Please keep me
posted. Let me know what you discover and what you did to fix this
puzzle.</span></span><span style="color: #26282a; font-family: inherit;"> </span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="color: #26282a;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">Aloha. Clayton</span><span style="font-family: Times New Roman, serif; font-size: 12pt;"><o:p></o:p></span></span></p>Lisa Boyerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00456582868505590514noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3101425646366692625.post-33400323173684726672022-04-05T10:51:00.000-10:002022-04-05T10:51:03.400-10:00Excellent Mantis Build Video by Brian Gray!<p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><iframe allowfullscreen="" class="BLOG_video_class" height="266" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/oWPE7d3E00E" width="320" youtube-src-id="oWPE7d3E00E"></iframe></div><p><br /></p><span style="font-family: inherit;">Brian Gray made this wonderful video of his build of the Mantis clock from cutting to assembly to fully working clock. He sent us this link, plus some very nice compliments. Thank you, Brian!</span><p></p><p><i style="font-family: inherit;">Clayton writes:</i></p><div><span style="font-family: inherit;"><i>Wow! This is an amazing video, Brian. You've done an excellent job constructing your Mantis wooden clock build, but you've also done a great job showing how you did it. You have an amazing workshop with so many excellent tools. I was drooling! Your shop makes mine look pretty meager. Beautifully done, Brian. You have shown the way these projects are approached by a true craftsman. I'll certainly be referring this video to other Mantis builders. Well Done! Aloha. Clayton</i></span></div><div><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></div><div><span style="font-family: inherit;"> Brian answers:</span></div><div><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></div><div><div><span style="font-family: inherit;">Thank you Clayton! It's been such a pleasure to put together a few of your clock designs, with more coming! I've been a machinist and woodworker for more than a few decades now. But for some reason, clocks have put a huge spark into my inspiration like no other projects in the past. Thank you very for taking the effort to make your plans available. I'm sure that creating an accurate set of plans is much more work than the clock itself, so thank you!</span></div></div><div><br /></div>Lisa Boyerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00456582868505590514noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3101425646366692625.post-18596552125884346542022-02-06T08:15:00.002-10:002022-02-06T08:15:56.324-10:00Perfect Involute Tooth Forms?<p><span style="color: #26282a; font-family: Helvetica Neue, Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif;"><span style="background-color: white; font-size: 13px;">Interesting question from a builder:</span></span></p><p><span style="background-color: white; color: #26282a; font-family: "Helvetica Neue", Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 13px;"><i>I'm new to wood clocks, but have some mechanical engineering experience. I see that the tooth profiles on the pinions are nothing like those on the wheels they drive (and neither look like involute teeth). </i></span></p><div style="background-color: white; color: #26282a; font-family: "Helvetica Neue", Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 13px;"><i>Why the difference in tooth profiles? It seems to me that the two ought to be the same. To add to the question, it seems to me the quasi-trapezoidal teeth on the driven wheels would be easier to cut accurately, suggesting the pinion teeth should be similar. What do you say?</i></div><div style="background-color: white; color: #26282a; font-family: "Helvetica Neue", Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 13px;"><i><br clear="none" /></i></div><div style="background-color: white; color: #26282a; font-family: "Helvetica Neue", Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 13px;"><i>Regards,</i></div><div style="background-color: white; color: #26282a; font-family: "Helvetica Neue", Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 13px;"><i>John </i></div><div style="background-color: white; color: #26282a; font-family: "Helvetica Neue", Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 13px;"><i><br /></i></div><div style="background-color: white; color: #26282a; font-family: "Helvetica Neue", Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 13px;"><div dir="ltr">Aloha John, it is nice to hear from you.</div><div dir="ltr"><br clear="none" /></div><div dir="ltr">Your engineering experience has taught you right. It has taught you about high speed gearing at its finest. </div><div dir="ltr"><br clear="none" /></div><div dir="ltr">Thing is...clocks don't move fast so that level of perfection is not required.</div><div dir="ltr"><br clear="none" /></div><div dir="ltr">As a matter of fact, in my own experiments, it's difficult to notice any difference at all with various tooth forms.</div><div dir="ltr"><br clear="none" /></div><div dir="ltr">I discuss this at length in my book, Practical Guide.</div><div dir="ltr"><br clear="none" /></div><div dir="ltr">Take a look at the various tooth forms that I use in my designs. You'll see straight sided, involute, "random", rounded, and none of them seem to perform much better than any other.</div><div dir="ltr"><br clear="none" /></div><div dir="ltr">You can make high speed, "perfectly" engineered teeth if you like, but do some experiments on your own and I think you'll convince yourself that pretty much any tooth form works well at low speeds.</div><div dir="ltr"><br clear="none" /></div><div dir="ltr">The old tymers used to cut triangular tooth forms. Worked fine for them. Hacked them out with adz and axes.</div><div dir="ltr"><br clear="none" /></div><div dir="ltr">Take a look at the teeth on this old clock on the cover of the National Association of Watch and Clock Collectors (NAWCC) journal. Here is a perfectly fine running clock with possibly the poorest choice of tooth form available...triangles. Ha! </div><div dir="ltr"><br clear="none" /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEjOsze_6I-n_KqI0FH07Ss1bdqDSaR2ANuW7eLyOXhF-KcURrScmEmFGhOMyJWEUIoPagCPPw0IkKWtfeB6u7y4xDPZlDH7se8-3VQZJp32UduQijhS24zC5jtpLhPffJDI5xjwUSDL6QlraFKZmssXHVlE118M7nz5MGVY3eUzpMnPqtj0pqx3iVDWuA=s380" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="380" data-original-width="308" height="417" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEjOsze_6I-n_KqI0FH07Ss1bdqDSaR2ANuW7eLyOXhF-KcURrScmEmFGhOMyJWEUIoPagCPPw0IkKWtfeB6u7y4xDPZlDH7se8-3VQZJp32UduQijhS24zC5jtpLhPffJDI5xjwUSDL6QlraFKZmssXHVlE118M7nz5MGVY3eUzpMnPqtj0pqx3iVDWuA=w338-h417" width="338" /></a></div><br /><div dir="ltr">And yet................it has been working for centuries.</div><div dir="ltr"><br clear="none" /></div><div dir="ltr">So, my advice is to make whatever tooth form strikes your fancy and compare it against the "perfect" involute tooth forms and see how much difference it makes in the running of your clock.</div><div dir="ltr"><br clear="none" /></div><div dir="ltr">Enjoy! Aloha. Clayton</div><div><br clear="none" style="font-family: "times new roman", "new york", times, serif; font-size: 16px;" /></div></div>Lisa Boyerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00456582868505590514noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3101425646366692625.post-44320375027061323042021-12-18T12:36:00.004-10:002021-12-18T12:36:54.109-10:00Kinetic Sculpture and Clock Escapement Escapades<p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Escapements are fascinating. Escapements add interest and movement to a clockworks since the escapement is the most active part of any clock. And there are such a variety of ways that people have invented to allow the catch-and-release of the power that is being transmitted through a clock's train of gears. But sometimes we don't need to build an entire clock to appreciate the movement of an escapement. Escapements can be kinetic sculptures in themselves, and especially fun when they are anthropomorphized, or made to represent some beast. Here are a couple of examples.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">In this first short video, called "Tasty Fingers", the creature, with its teeth bared, is trying to take a bite from each of the fingers as they come around. But the creature misses every time, which causes his hat to raise in surprise. He is thinking, "Maybe the next finger will be the tasty one."</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><iframe allowfullscreen='allowfullscreen' webkitallowfullscreen='webkitallowfullscreen' mozallowfullscreen='mozallowfullscreen' width='320' height='266' src='https://www.blogger.com/video.g?token=AD6v5dydxvp7dZfaw2kQtjPrkBQqh6W1NKs3_G1OyTfOb26qAfrAcKfX4hXRhZn1bemMbcv7TFZ163jPBusf_pEE6w' class='b-hbp-video b-uploaded' frameborder='0'></iframe></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">This is a video of the "Sipping Flowers" escapement in which a bird is sitting balanced atop a flower that is rocking with the pendulum. And each time the flower rocks, the bird sticks his beak into the other flower (the escape wheel) to take a sip.</div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><iframe allowfullscreen='allowfullscreen' webkitallowfullscreen='webkitallowfullscreen' mozallowfullscreen='mozallowfullscreen' width='320' height='266' src='https://www.blogger.com/video.g?token=AD6v5dxexKsB8-JMiJoxGogz07xlNb8faac8pB9lWIQhDIUrr9TPveAS6HBdJcxpRv7_NAXPr1v1RQ1y-JG1GCMuWg' class='b-hbp-video b-uploaded' frameborder='0'></iframe></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><span style="text-align: left;">A wide variety of interesting escapements can be seen throughout the clock and kinetic sculpture plans shown on my main page. Compare the escapement of Solaris with that of Simplicity or Bird of Paradise or Harmonic Oscillator. They are all so different and wonderful.</span></div></div><p></p>Lisa Boyerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00456582868505590514noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3101425646366692625.post-55925321885958224932021-11-03T12:46:00.005-10:002021-11-05T07:46:50.343-10:00Sometimes Reality Doesn't Cooperate: The Monotonous Pi Clock<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="text-align: left;">Not all clock plans make it for sale on my website. This is the story of Pi.</span></div><div style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi9GE6pd-allCPdaSFx8O34nj-b11xbrFOqG2HCVEvHCxMP6MNy0R5KVFuW1I2nt5Y2WP-YhKo8W5ZNXbMJ0uLScwvvrXNELVUmtW-lm_gpmXA-kTilRZcCnWl_BRJKuAtmKbC90lzgwdSu/s483/0.png" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="482" data-original-width="483" height="319" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi9GE6pd-allCPdaSFx8O34nj-b11xbrFOqG2HCVEvHCxMP6MNy0R5KVFuW1I2nt5Y2WP-YhKo8W5ZNXbMJ0uLScwvvrXNELVUmtW-lm_gpmXA-kTilRZcCnWl_BRJKuAtmKbC90lzgwdSu/s320/0.png" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEit3U_tyzE_NWxXsgqxHF6eorgjzWcALalTUWbxOBKmfVNiMQA8hz9A5dLiHhkphEcdyVgV_rPxf7an-ECVQ06y1i9YqEYvCbP5SNaizSurNGRSAfzQO794Ra7OAwsGYp2b-iKF7Ricdi04/s473/1x.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="473" data-original-width="395" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEit3U_tyzE_NWxXsgqxHF6eorgjzWcALalTUWbxOBKmfVNiMQA8hz9A5dLiHhkphEcdyVgV_rPxf7an-ECVQ06y1i9YqEYvCbP5SNaizSurNGRSAfzQO794Ra7OAwsGYp2b-iKF7Ricdi04/s320/1x.jpg" width="267" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">Above: Monotonous Pi 3D Renderings made from my dxfs</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">by my friend, Oleg in Russia</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">Below: Pi, actually built by me, in motion below:</div><br /><div style="text-align: center;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><iframe allowfullscreen='allowfullscreen' webkitallowfullscreen='webkitallowfullscreen' mozallowfullscreen='mozallowfullscreen' width='400' height='322' src='https://www.blogger.com/video.g?token=AD6v5dxMkI_yN693irgXE-_hDl8zhYvRS-0_OBFGPQZ7CEquPCAa_tK-nYDQ4_N9A_4FVzAfTxvfj-539GJTZ7BOMw' class='b-hbp-video b-uploaded' frameborder='0'></iframe></div><br /></div><div style="text-align: center;"><br /></div><div>The Monotonous Pi is a kinetic sculpture posing as a clock. It has all the parts of both a clock and a kinetic sculpture. That huge circular pendulum has a very slow forward and back oscillation of approximately 38 beats a minute.
Monotonous Pi has its roots in the Medieval 1300’s when the verge and foliot clocks were the techie’s state of the art timepieces. They weren’t very accurate. They could be off twenty minutes a day…plus or minus. That’s a pretty huge possible error spread, and that error rate in timekeeping, with only slight improvements, continued until the late 1600’s when the seconds pendulum was introduced by Galileo and others - like Christiaan Huygens (who, in my opinion, never gets enough credit).
But not all verge and folio clocks had such problems with accuracy. Christiaan Huygens (1629-1695) had a suggestion that I’ve incorporated into all of my verge and folio clock designs (except Monotonous Pi), and they are actually quite accurate timekeepers.
Huygens recommended a return spring on the verge to increase the clock’s accuracy. My designs, other than Pi, have just such a return spring which is created by the spread of the cord from which the verge and foliot is suspended. Most verge and foliots in those early days were suspended by a single strand of silk. By changing over to a loop of cord we can add that return spring advantage to our verge and foliot clocks that Huygens suggested, and this simple improvement increases their accuracy dramatically. You can see that loop of cord suspending the verge and foliot in my Medieval Rack, Holologium, and Wee Willie designs.
But…Monotonous Pi is not one with a looped suspension cord or return spring, so its accuracy is very similar to the workings of those early Medieval clocks - which is not very good…but <i>sometimes</i> it’s right! However, on the other hand, as a kinetic sculpture the Monotonous Pi is excellent! Pi is a visual delight.
It is lovely to watch Pi’s slow oscillating movement forward and back. And it does try so hard to keep good time, even though it’s not very good at it. Still…Monotonous Pi is one of my favorite sculptures. Pi is truly a delight to watch.</div><div><br /></div><div>Aloha, Clayton</div>Lisa Boyerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00456582868505590514noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3101425646366692625.post-80212446703558470852021-10-16T08:42:00.000-10:002021-10-16T08:44:23.961-10:00NEW! The Mantis Clock<p> <br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj3R-VsW3bzrA0ThRe2HrVXSWoZOWzVu5d5Ysvt2ooRFIFLtEX4OCuBrKbv1oQqXhPwAbohy2WKPtXiWU9EPU4PF-T006FvaBWnOF0Ne6TPsF7VJGLCRjp5OFQg0tSmO1TLvvFdqUgzNTHy/s2793/mantisstill1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2793" data-original-width="1126" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj3R-VsW3bzrA0ThRe2HrVXSWoZOWzVu5d5Ysvt2ooRFIFLtEX4OCuBrKbv1oQqXhPwAbohy2WKPtXiWU9EPU4PF-T006FvaBWnOF0Ne6TPsF7VJGLCRjp5OFQg0tSmO1TLvvFdqUgzNTHy/w161-h400/mantisstill1.jpg" width="161" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Mantis by Clayton Boyer</td></tr></tbody></table></p><p>Mantis has a large, slow, two second beat compound balance pendulum. The pendulum on Mantis is about 46" (117cm) making it actually longer than a regular straight, hanging seconds pendulum, which are usually around 42" (107cm). However to get a straight, hanging pendulum to tick at a two second beat, that pendulum would have to be over thirteen feet long. Because Mantis uses a compound balance pendulum, we were able to create not only a dramatically shorter pendulum, but one with an artistic flare that beautifully accents this clock.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><iframe allowfullscreen="" class="BLOG_video_class" height="266" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/d055dK2E7aU" width="320" youtube-src-id="d055dK2E7aU"></iframe></div><p>Mantis has a special escapement that allows for a very large and dramatic pendulum arc. With its pendulum swinging with about forty degrees of arc, it makes Mantis as much a kinetic sculpture as it is a clock. The way the Mantis escapement is designed helps modulate its tone and creates a slow, gentle "tick" with each contact with an escape wheel tooth. The slow swing and gentle sound of the pendulum is relaxing and mesmerizing, and the movement is a delight to view.</p><p><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh5Yo5-moNeWIbuDzBeoaDPFEKEYAACDXdhJGgA4LYkLLqOM3tM_V4TT7P6NOqHVsKjfKtvw4-tNu1_Kxnt6QIh_gyKjQnf1szMryGWAHPf8qDzeRKG6PdvrVkqrwoOJgwxOpFHG7cWqe_Q/s2048/20211015_093935.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1536" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh5Yo5-moNeWIbuDzBeoaDPFEKEYAACDXdhJGgA4LYkLLqOM3tM_V4TT7P6NOqHVsKjfKtvw4-tNu1_Kxnt6QIh_gyKjQnf1szMryGWAHPf8qDzeRKG6PdvrVkqrwoOJgwxOpFHG7cWqe_Q/s320/20211015_093935.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Mantis by Clayton Boyer</td></tr></tbody></table></p><p>Hiding behind the mobile crescent at the right side of the dial ring is a motorized remontoir making daily rewinding of this beautiful sculpture unnecessary. The clock is powered by a weighted motor arm that automatically rewinds the clock. The amount of drive weight is adjustable by simply changing the amount hanging from the cord on the right of the clock. The difficult part for me was determining what to hang there. There are so many beautiful options. I tried various rocks (which looked pretty nice), glass spheres, a painted fishing weight, and finally settled on the clean look of copper tube. That tube weighs 3.6oz (102gm), and to avoid over stressing the motor, the amount of added weight drive should be 8oz (227gm) or less. The rewinding of the remontoir motor arm is powered by an onboard nine volt battery which will keep the clock running for about three to four months.</p><p>Mantis has movement throughout its design - from the massive swing of the pendulum, to the remontoir motor arm actuating the bobblehead and crescent that accent Mantis' "broken" dial ring. The Organic clock design also has a "broken" dial, however that design is mainly aesthetic. The dial ring of the Mantis is "broken" for a different reason - which is to allow the viewer a better view of the internal workings of this sculpture. </p><p>Mantis was named because of the similarities between the antennae of a praying mantis and the upper part of the Mantis' double split pendulum. As it happened, the day before the Mantis was completed we were surprised to see that the Mantis clock had been visited by its namesake, a praying mantis. Shown going for a ride on the bobblehead in the picture below. The praying mantis spent the night hanging out on the bobblehead, however I still needed to add the decorative brass screws, so I moved him/her to the nearest rosebush. Obviously, such serendipity must equate, in some way, to a celebrity endorsement!</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi5JdAGUSpxzYmx5gcpVLlAY2j7AcbVOrJfn_H5Z0jLbmi-BslmngoXZEJrTO4H9z-htrHs_gurgTUXpZraSKk02iklilMo2ALOyPF1sygLM1uUhAKQxEwFjXmhcfNNvYBvFU0VnIt_8vgG/s392/mantisonmantis.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="300" data-original-width="392" height="245" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi5JdAGUSpxzYmx5gcpVLlAY2j7AcbVOrJfn_H5Z0jLbmi-BslmngoXZEJrTO4H9z-htrHs_gurgTUXpZraSKk02iklilMo2ALOyPF1sygLM1uUhAKQxEwFjXmhcfNNvYBvFU0VnIt_8vgG/s320/mantisonmantis.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A Mantis on Mantis</td></tr></tbody></table>Enjoy, Clayton Boyer<p></p>Lisa Boyerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00456582868505590514noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3101425646366692625.post-11818549883856321972021-03-07T10:15:00.001-10:002021-03-07T10:15:45.811-10:00Beautiful Video on Making a Wooden Clock by Rasim Ramadan<p dir="rtl" style="text-align: right;"> </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><iframe allowfullscreen="" class="BLOG_video_class" height="266" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/cnufC4m8R1Y" width="320" youtube-src-id="cnufC4m8R1Y"></iframe></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">"A Clock from the Fairy Tales"</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Excellent and beautifully made video by builder Rasim Ramadan showing his Organic Clock build. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Enjoy! Clayton</div><p></p>Lisa Boyerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00456582868505590514noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3101425646366692625.post-45637198412866163482020-11-19T14:57:00.003-10:002020-11-19T14:57:47.857-10:00Troubleshooting the Dial Train when the clock runs well but the hands are not turning correctly<p></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg9Chwdu1W8jyApvn_XqBFdVenkHUVXmrfw16R-Biu-gJ7dmaaWbFhrPx-dqeSKbU1zfufAUBT9Kmdq8jlTD4tYl0N8cejfMSsB1jiu8WFfOZR6iPtOGb5tMjbhmCK5sGJkzat8mguHAih8/s2156/Modern+Times+by+Brian+Addis+1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2156" data-original-width="1961" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg9Chwdu1W8jyApvn_XqBFdVenkHUVXmrfw16R-Biu-gJ7dmaaWbFhrPx-dqeSKbU1zfufAUBT9Kmdq8jlTD4tYl0N8cejfMSsB1jiu8WFfOZR6iPtOGb5tMjbhmCK5sGJkzat8mguHAih8/w182-h200/Modern+Times+by+Brian+Addis+1.jpg" width="182" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b>Modern Times Clock<br />(just some eye candy unrelated to this post)<br /></b></td></tr></tbody></table><p></p><p><span style="background-color: white; color: #26282a; font-family: "Helvetica Neue", Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif; font-size: small;"><br />Berry writes: <i>I have everything completed now on the clock but having issues (I bet you hate letters like this). The motor drives the Center Wheel just fine. The Third Wheel and Escape Wheel and Pallet chug along day and night. It looks great. Unfortunately the Minute and Hour hands don't keep the time. I marked the Center Arbor Tube and Hour Arbor Tube with a spot of ink at the top. After one hour they were at the 9 o'clock position. Fifteen minutes later they're both back at 12.</i></span></p><div class="yiv8846526410ydp785785e7yiv7569781963ydpa7839d59yiv3489051595gmail_default" style="background-color: white; color: #26282a; font-family: "Helvetica Neue", Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif; font-size: small;"><i>I've no idea if you can help, but I'm hoping you can.<br clear="none" /></i></div><div class="yiv8846526410ydp785785e7yiv7569781963ydpa7839d59yiv3489051595gmail_default" style="background-color: white; color: #26282a; font-family: "Helvetica Neue", Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif; font-size: small;"><i><br clear="none" /></i></div><div class="yiv8846526410ydp785785e7yiv7569781963ydpa7839d59yiv3489051595gmail_default" style="background-color: white; color: #26282a; font-family: "Helvetica Neue", Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif; font-size: small;"><i>Best wishes - stay healthy, Berry</i></div><div class="yiv8846526410ydp785785e7yiv7569781963ydpa7839d59yiv3489051595gmail_default" style="background-color: white; color: #26282a; font-family: "Helvetica Neue", Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif; font-size: small;"><i><br clear="none" /></i></div><div class="yiv8846526410ydp785785e7yiv7569781963ydpa7839d59yiv3489051595gmail_default" style="background-color: white; color: #26282a; font-family: "Helvetica Neue", Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif; font-size: small;"><br /></div><div class="yiv8846526410ydp785785e7yiv7569781963ydpa7839d59yiv3489051595gmail_default" style="background-color: white; color: #26282a; font-family: "Helvetica Neue", Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif; font-size: small;"><div dir="ltr" style="font-family: "times new roman", "new york", times, serif; font-size: 16px;">Aloha Berry, if I understand correctly, it sounds like something is slipping or some glue joint may have come apart.</div><div dir="ltr" style="font-family: "times new roman", "new york", times, serif; font-size: 16px;"><br /></div><div dir="ltr" style="font-family: "times new roman", "new york", times, serif; font-size: 16px;">Here are some of the places that slippage may occur in the dial train of these wonderful mechanisms....</div><div dir="ltr" style="font-family: "times new roman", "new york", times, serif; font-size: 16px;"><br clear="none" /></div><div dir="ltr" style="font-family: "times new roman", "new york", times, serif; font-size: 16px;">Check to make sure that the center wheel tube is pressed tightly inside the center wheel. That tube should travel with the center wheel and make one revolution every 60 minutes. </div><div dir="ltr" style="font-family: "times new roman", "new york", times, serif; font-size: 16px;"><br clear="none" /></div><div dir="ltr" style="font-family: "times new roman", "new york", times, serif; font-size: 16px;">To that tube is added the cannon pinion and its tube. The cannon is held to the center wheel tube by the leather plug system that allows for synchronous movement of the minute and hour hands. The minute hand is attached to the other end of the tube that is tight inside the cannon. Make sure that the tube is tight inside the cannon and minute hand and they are not slipping.</div><div dir="ltr" style="font-family: "times new roman", "new york", times, serif; font-size: 16px;"><br clear="none" /></div><div dir="ltr" style="font-family: "times new roman", "new york", times, serif; font-size: 16px;">The clock will run like that and show the minutes, but we need to also see what hour it is, so take off the minute hand from the cannon tube and slide the intermediate wheel onto its rod. The cannon can now drive the intermediate wheel. The intermediate wheel has glued to it a pinion. Make sure that glue joint between the intermediate wheel and it pinion is tight. </div><div dir="ltr" style="font-family: "times new roman", "new york", times, serif; font-size: 16px;"><br clear="none" /></div><div dir="ltr" style="font-family: "times new roman", "new york", times, serif; font-size: 16px;">The intermediate pinion drives the hour wheel. The hour wheel has a tube pressed tightly into its center. Make sure that tube in the hour wheel is not slipping. On the other end of that hour tube the hour hand is pressed on tightly. Check to be sure that hand it tight to the hour tube as well. Once you have slid the hour wheel/tube/hand assembly onto the cannon/tube assembly then you can press on the minute hand. The minute hand should be tight to the tube.</div><div dir="ltr" style="font-family: "times new roman", "new york", times, serif; font-size: 16px;"><br clear="none" /></div><div dir="ltr" style="font-family: "times new roman", "new york", times, serif; font-size: 16px;">Somewhere in that system from center wheel to minute hand, something is slipping...OR...</div><div dir="ltr" style="font-family: "times new roman", "new york", times, serif; font-size: 16px;"><br /></div><div dir="ltr" style="font-family: "times new roman", "new york", times, serif; font-size: 16px;">OR, it may not be slipping at all, possibly just the opposite. </div><div dir="ltr" style="font-family: "times new roman", "new york", times, serif; font-size: 16px;"><br /></div><div dir="ltr" style="font-family: "times new roman", "new york", times, serif; font-size: 16px;">There is a possibility that the three tubes are binding somewhere and not running freely with each other. The center wheel tube, and the cannon's minute tube and the hour tube must all be able to turn smoothly and easily on each other, and the center wheel tube needs to turn freely on the center wheel arbor.</div><div dir="ltr" style="font-family: "times new roman", "new york", times, serif; font-size: 16px;"><br /></div><div dir="ltr" style="font-family: "times new roman", "new york", times, serif; font-size: 16px;">If, for example, you forgot to put the leather plug in the cannon pinion and screwed the set screw directly into the center wheel tube then that tube will be dented and it will not move freely on the center wheel arbor. That dent will cause the tube to stick to the rod and not move freely.</div><div dir="ltr" style="font-family: "times new roman", "new york", times, serif; font-size: 16px;"><br /></div><div dir="ltr" style="font-family: "times new roman", "new york", times, serif; font-size: 16px;">Sometimes tubes get dented or bent in other ways and will not turn freely on the rod or tube they mate with. Test all tubes for free motion.</div><div dir="ltr" style="font-family: "times new roman", "new york", times, serif; font-size: 16px;"><br /></div><div dir="ltr" style="font-family: "times new roman", "new york", times, serif; font-size: 16px;">Sometimes after the rod or tube has been newly cut there are residual barbs and metal fragments on their ends that need to be cleaned up and removed. Polishing the arbors and cleaning up the cut ends of the rods and tubes helps this tremendously.</div><div dir="ltr" style="font-family: "times new roman", "new york", times, serif; font-size: 16px;"><br /></div><div dir="ltr" style="font-family: "times new roman", "new york", times, serif; font-size: 16px;">All of the rods and various tubes must run easily on their mating rod or tube. </div><div dir="ltr" style="font-family: "times new roman", "new york", times, serif; font-size: 16px;"><br clear="none" /></div><div dir="ltr" style="font-family: "times new roman", "new york", times, serif; font-size: 16px;">Hopefully this gets your clock running nicely. If not, send me a video showing what's happening and I can probably make a better diagnosis.</div><div dir="ltr" style="font-family: "times new roman", "new york", times, serif; font-size: 16px;"><br clear="none" /></div><div dir="ltr" style="font-family: "times new roman", "new york", times, serif; font-size: 16px;">Enjoy! and send pix when you get your project completed.</div><div dir="ltr" style="font-family: "times new roman", "new york", times, serif; font-size: 16px;"><br clear="none" /></div><div dir="ltr" style="font-family: "times new roman", "new york", times, serif; font-size: 16px;">Aloha. Clayton</div></div>Lisa Boyerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00456582868505590514noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3101425646366692625.post-91910099410255138122020-11-19T14:44:00.000-10:002020-11-19T14:44:01.350-10:00Depthing and Troubleshooting<p></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="background: white; line-height: normal; margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0in;"></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi1mWFpQxb4nqy5Fzwk92W0U7jSftiDpxGK8g2fuXU7K5nogMfXLkSlOLrF3KmkuVfVdUXIEqwF7c8MmveyD8sWj6HHIi_3_xnwC_c6dO6odQjOLCo5H2ENUTwzOeuFtUP7UPOv_aeXJNXe/s655/moderntimesfull.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="655" data-original-width="260" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi1mWFpQxb4nqy5Fzwk92W0U7jSftiDpxGK8g2fuXU7K5nogMfXLkSlOLrF3KmkuVfVdUXIEqwF7c8MmveyD8sWj6HHIi_3_xnwC_c6dO6odQjOLCo5H2ENUTwzOeuFtUP7UPOv_aeXJNXe/w126-h320/moderntimesfull.jpg" width="126" /></a></div><p></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="background: white; line-height: normal; margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0in;"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman", serif; font-size: 12pt;">Residual internal
friction is the bane of our wooden clock movements. Friction can happen in a variety of places,
and that’s why I always recommend Depthing as we build to help find and
eliminate as much internal friction as possible before the assembly is
completed.</span><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman", serif; font-size: 12pt;"> </span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal" style="background: white; line-height: normal; margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0in;"><span style="color: black; font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">The Depthing process takes
time, but it also saves time at the end in trying to find hidden friction
points.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Once the Depthing of all the
pieces is complete, it almost assures that the clock should run well once the
pendulum is put into motion.</span><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman", serif; font-size: 12pt;"> </span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal" style="background: white; line-height: normal; margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0in;"><span style="color: black; font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">Depthing is a simple
process of testing one wheel with its pinion using the clock frame these two
gears will be running in.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Depthing is
testing ONE wheel and ONE pinion...not the whole train of gears at one
time.<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal" style="background: white; line-height: normal; margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0in;"><span style="color: black; font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><o:p> </o:p></span><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman", serif; font-size: 12pt;">In reality while
building our clock, we don’t want to just test one wheel and one pinion.</span><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman", serif; font-size: 12pt;"> </span><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman", serif; font-size: 12pt;">We want to test those two gears on their completed
assemblies, just as they will be running in our clock.</span><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman", serif; font-size: 12pt;"> </span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal" style="background: white; line-height: normal; margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0in;"><span style="color: black; font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><o:p> </o:p></span><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman", serif; font-size: 12pt;">We want to first create
a completed wheel arbor assembly (i.e.: wheel, connector and pinion on its
arbor). Then create a second complete wheel arbor assembly. Then
test these two completed arbor assemblies, with their spacers, in the
reassembled clock frame. </span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal" style="background: white; line-height: normal; margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0in;"><span style="color: black; font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><o:p> </o:p></span><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman", serif; font-size: 12pt;">I always recommend
Depthing as the clock is being built, however, if the clock has already been
assembled, to depth correctly the clock is taken completely apart.</span><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman", serif; font-size: 12pt;"> </span><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman", serif; font-size: 12pt;">All the arbors removed from the Frame, and
then one wheel assembly and its matching pinion assembly are put back into the
clock.</span><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman", serif; font-size: 12pt;"> </span><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman", serif; font-size: 12pt;">The clock frame is totally
reassembled with just those two arbors, and then the wheel set (one pinion and
one wheel is a wheel set) are tested by gently blowing on the large
wheel. This process will detect even the slightest bit of internal
friction that could stop the clock. </span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal" style="background: white; line-height: normal; margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0in;"><span style="color: black; font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><o:p> </o:p></span><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman", serif; font-size: 12pt;">Internal friction may be
caused by the contact surfaces of the wheel and pinion, or possibly the teeth
may be bottoming out in the dedendum (the valley between the teeth), or even a
tight set of spacer tubes could be binding the arbor in the frame.</span><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman", serif; font-size: 12pt;"> </span><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman", serif; font-size: 12pt;">Any and all of these can be detected by
proper Depthing.</span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal" style="background: white; line-height: normal; margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0in;"><span style="color: black; font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><o:p> </o:p></span><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman", serif; font-size: 12pt;">Because clocks never run
backwards, only one side of the teeth is ever used.</span><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman", serif; font-size: 12pt;"> </span><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman", serif; font-size: 12pt;">That is called the Contact Side of the
tooth.</span><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman", serif; font-size: 12pt;"> </span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal" style="background: white; line-height: normal; margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0in;"><span style="color: black; font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><o:p> </o:p></span><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman", serif; font-size: 12pt;">If a space is too narrow
between teeth we want to take the wood off of Non-Contact surface of the
teeth.</span><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman", serif; font-size: 12pt;"> </span><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman", serif; font-size: 12pt;">Avoid sanding wood off of the
contact surface of the tooth.</span><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman", serif; font-size: 12pt;"> </span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal" style="background: white; line-height: normal; margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0in;"><span style="color: black; font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">Removing wood from the
back of the toot allows the spacing of the front of the teeth to remain
constant while at the same time opening up the space between the teeth enough
for proper clearance.</span><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman", serif; font-size: 12pt;"> </span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal" style="background: white; line-height: normal; margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0in;"><span style="color: black; font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">A clock wheel travels
only in one direction, and with only one wheel and one pinion in the clock’s
frame it gives us the opportunity to first visualize the direction that the
wheel will be turning in the clock, and to decide which side of the teeth is
the contact side.</span><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman", serif; font-size: 12pt;"> </span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal" style="background: white; line-height: normal; margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0in;"><span style="color: black; font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">With one wheel and one
pinion being tested inside the reassembled frame we are also simultaneously
testing other parts, like the Frame’s arbor holes and the arbor’s spacers, and this
allows us to make sure that these parts are not causing the increased internal
friction.</span><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman", serif; font-size: 12pt;"> </span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal" style="background: white; line-height: normal; margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0in;"><span style="color: black; font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">If the spacers are
causing internal friction they can be filed or sanded slightly to allow freedom
of motion of the two arbors.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>There
should be about 1/16” (1.5mm) of end play (front to back movement) in each
arbor.<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal" style="background: white; line-height: normal; margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0in;"><span style="color: black; font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><o:p> </o:p></span><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman", serif; font-size: 12pt;">Depthing also can let us
know of another potential cause of internal friction - the arbor holes.
Possibly the arbor holes are binding because the holes in the front and back
frame are not aligned, or because the drill holes are too small or because the
fibers inside the drill hole are going in the wrong direction for that
particular arbor. </span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal" style="background: white; line-height: normal; margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0in;"><span style="color: black; font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><o:p> </o:p></span><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman", serif; font-size: 12pt;">Because our drill
presses only turn the drill in one direction as we drill each of the arbor
holes in the frame, that means that every other drill hole has wood fibers
inside the hole that are facing in the opposite direction that the arbor will
be constantly turning as the clock runs. This is usually not a big
problem, but if those opposing directional fibers should get damp and swell they
can easily stop an arbor. Burnishing the inside of the arbor hole can
help in a couple of ways.</span><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman", serif; font-size: 12pt;"> </span><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman", serif; font-size: 12pt;">It can flatten
the wood fibers and also add paraffin to decrease friction.</span><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman", serif; font-size: 12pt;"> </span><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman", serif; font-size: 12pt;">To burnish, simply chuck an arbor rod in a
hand drill, add paraffin to the rod, and run it in and out of the hole.</span><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman", serif; font-size: 12pt;"> </span><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman", serif; font-size: 12pt;">Reverse the direction of the drill and
burnish again.</span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal" style="background: white; line-height: normal; margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0in;"><span style="color: black; font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><o:p> </o:p></span><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman", serif; font-size: 12pt;">Then, after that first
wheel set has been tested and the internal friction removed, the clock is then
disassembled again and the first wheel arbor is removed. The next arbor
in the train is then to be tested the same way - one wheel and one pinion -
with their spacers inside the reassembled frame - with a gentle puff of air on
the large wheel.</span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal" style="background: white; line-height: normal; margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0in;"><span style="color: black; font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><o:p> </o:p></span><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman", serif; font-size: 12pt;">All of the wheel sets
(one pinion and one wheel) throughout the entire clock are separately tested
using this Depthing procedure. Once the Depthing is complete you can be
sure that the wheels, pinions and spacers are all going to work properly. </span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal" style="background: white; line-height: normal; margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0in;"><span style="color: black; font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><o:p> </o:p></span><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman", serif; font-size: 12pt;">Once all the wheels and
pinions are depthed correctly and the clock still occasionally stops, that may
mean that the problem probably is NOT in the wheels or pinions but somewhere
else, such as two parts rubbing causing increased internal friction. This
can happen as an arbor moves forward or back and begins to press its spacer
into the clock's frame with enough force to stop the clock. </span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal" style="background: white; line-height: normal; margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0in;"><span style="color: black; font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><o:p> </o:p></span><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman", serif; font-size: 12pt;">You can visually
check. When a clock has been running well and then spontaneously stops
for no apparent reason, check to see if the arbor has moved forward or back and
is rubbing on the frame or some other part. In a clock that is not
properly depthed, this movement of the arbor, combined with the improper Depthing
might create enough internal friction to cause the clock to stop....not from
just one problem, but from the combination of two or more residual problems.</span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal" style="background: white; line-height: normal; margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0in;"><span style="color: black; font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><o:p> </o:p></span><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman", serif; font-size: 12pt;">The most common place
for the arbor shifting to happen is at the Center Wheel arbor and its Cap (but
any arbor can shift increasing internal friction). On the Center Wheel
arbor it is usually not the arbor itself shifting that is causing the friction,
but the minute and hour tubes that have slid forward into the Cap. </span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal" style="background: white; line-height: normal; margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0in;"><span style="color: black; font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><o:p> </o:p></span><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman", serif; font-size: 12pt;">A common cause of
shifting arbors is mounting the clock to a wall that is not plumb.</span><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman", serif; font-size: 12pt;"> </span><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman", serif; font-size: 12pt;">If your arbors are shifting, check the plumb
of the wall.</span><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman", serif; font-size: 12pt;"> </span><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman", serif; font-size: 12pt;">An easy fix for this is to
shim the clock’s frame so that the clock sits level on the wall.</span><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman", serif; font-size: 12pt;"> </span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal" style="background: white; line-height: normal; margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0in;"><span style="color: black; font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><o:p> </o:p></span><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman", serif; font-size: 12pt;">Also, once the clock is
mounted level, another fix that can help minimize shifting arbor friction is to
cut a couple of nylon or Teflon washers to fit between the tubes and the
Cap. These washers will allow the tubes to turn at the Cap, but not rub
on the Cap.</span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal" style="background: white; line-height: normal; margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0in;"><span style="color: black; font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><o:p> </o:p></span><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman", serif; font-size: 12pt;">To cut your own washers,
you can use something like a plastic coffee can lid. Drill the plastic with
a brad point bit that is just slightly over-sized for the arbor. I use brad
point bits for these center holes because they give a cleaner cut and don't
leave a ragged plastic edge around the hole. Once the center hole is
drilled, the washer can be cut to size from the lid with scissors or even a
larger brad point bit.</span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal" style="background: white; line-height: normal; margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0in;"><span style="color: black; font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><o:p> </o:p></span><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman", serif; font-size: 12pt;">Sometimes internal
friction as slight as the tubes rubbing on caps is enough to stop a clock,
especially if it happens in concert with another source of internal friction.</span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal" style="background: white; line-height: normal; margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0in;"><span style="color: black; font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><o:p> </o:p></span><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman", serif; font-size: 12pt;">To minimize internal
friction even more paraffin can be used on the contact surfaces of the teeth,
on the arbor rods, and in the arbor holes in the frame.</span><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman", serif; font-size: 12pt;"> </span><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman", serif; font-size: 12pt;">I prefer using a color coordinated Crayon
because the paraffin of a Crayon is softer than candle wax and the sharp tip
allows us to get the paraffin in between the teeth easily.</span><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman", serif; font-size: 12pt;"> </span><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman", serif; font-size: 12pt;">But not too much!</span><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman", serif; font-size: 12pt;"> </span><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman", serif; font-size: 12pt;">Too much paraffin can pack into the dedendums
(the valleys between the teeth) and cause the teeth to bottom out into the wad
of wax.</span><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman", serif; font-size: 12pt;"> </span><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman", serif; font-size: 12pt;">This bottoming out will stop the
clock.</span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal" style="background: white; line-height: normal; margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0in;"><span style="color: black; font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><o:p> </o:p></span><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman", serif; font-size: 12pt;">Another source of
internal friction that has nothing at all to do with the clock’s gear train
could be the groove in the pendulum pivot rod.</span><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman", serif; font-size: 12pt;">
</span><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman", serif; font-size: 12pt;">Too deep a groove can cause the clock to stop.</span><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman", serif; font-size: 12pt;"> </span><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman", serif; font-size: 12pt;">The groove in the pendulum pivot rod should
be 1/32” (0.75mm) or less in depth.</span><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman", serif; font-size: 12pt;"> </span><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman", serif; font-size: 12pt;">We
want only enough depth to hold the sharp, knife-edge point of the pendulum pivot
from slipping side to side.</span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal" style="background: white; line-height: normal; margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0in;"><span style="color: black; font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><o:p> </o:p></span><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman", serif; font-size: 12pt;">The Pendulum/Pallet/Crutch
assembly can be tested for friction by simply removing the Escape Wheel.</span><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman", serif; font-size: 12pt;"> </span><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman", serif; font-size: 12pt;">With the Escape Wheel removed, move the
Pendulum’s Bob to the side about two or three inches and let it go.</span><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman", serif; font-size: 12pt;"> </span><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman", serif; font-size: 12pt;">The Pendulum/Pallet/Crutch assembly should
continue to rock freely for at least 60 seconds, and 90 seconds is even better.</span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal" style="background: white; line-height: normal; margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0in;"><span style="color: black; font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><o:p> </o:p></span><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman", serif; font-size: 12pt;">If the Pendulum/Pallet/Crutch
assembly does not rock freely for at least 60 seconds, check all contact points
for friction.</span><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman", serif; font-size: 12pt;"> </span><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman", serif; font-size: 12pt;">Maybe the arbor holes in
the frame are not aligned, or the arbor holes are drilled too small.</span><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman", serif; font-size: 12pt;"> </span><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman", serif; font-size: 12pt;">Or possibly the Crutch Pin slot in the
Pendulum is too tight.</span><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman", serif; font-size: 12pt;"> </span><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman", serif; font-size: 12pt;">The Crutch Pin
should move freely in the Pendulum’s slot, but not with too much slop.</span><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman", serif; font-size: 12pt;"> </span><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman", serif; font-size: 12pt;">Too narrow a slot will cause binding friction
with the Crutch Pin.</span><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman", serif; font-size: 12pt;"> </span><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman", serif; font-size: 12pt;">Too wide a slot
will not allow the Crutch Pin to deliver the impulse to the Pendulum.</span><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman", serif; font-size: 12pt;"> </span><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman", serif; font-size: 12pt;">With loss of this impulse from the Crutch Pin
the clock will stop.</span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal" style="background: white; line-height: normal; margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0in;"><span style="color: black; font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><o:p> </o:p></span><b><span style="color: #26282a; font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">So to summarize</span></b><span style="color: #26282a; font-family: "Times New Roman", serif; font-size: 12pt;">, one tests the pinion on the escape assembly
with the third wheel assembly without the center wheel assembly (a with b) and
then the pinion on the third wheel assembly with the center wheel assembly
without the escape assembly (b with c).</span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal" style="background: white; line-height: normal; margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0in;"><span style="color: #26282a; font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><o:p> </o:p></span><span style="color: #26282a; font-family: "Times New Roman", serif; font-size: 12pt;">With all this done,
then all three (a + b + c) should run freely in the assembled
clock. </span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal" style="background: white; line-height: normal; margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0in;"><span style="color: #26282a; font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><o:p> </o:p></span><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman", serif; font-size: 12pt;">Also, the cannon is
tested with the intermediate wheel and then the intermediate wheel is tested
with the hour wheel.</span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal" style="background: white; line-height: normal; margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0in;"><span style="color: #26282a; font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><o:p> </o:p></span><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman", serif; font-size: 12pt;">And the pallets are
tested with the escape wheel (see FAQ's for more information on manually testing
the pallets and escape wheel).</span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal" style="background: white; line-height: normal; margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0in;"><span style="color: black; font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><o:p> </o:p></span><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman", serif; font-size: 12pt;">And the pendulum is
tested with the crutch assembly of the pallets.</span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal" style="background: white; line-height: normal; margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0in;"><span style="color: #26282a; font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><o:p> </o:p></span><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman", serif; font-size: 12pt;">The more Depthing and
testing that is done during assembly the better chance that the clock will
continue to tick with the first gentle push of the pendulum.</span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal" style="background: white; line-height: normal; margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0in;"><span style="color: black; font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><o:p> </o:p></span><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman", serif; font-size: 12pt;">Remember also that
changes in humidity can affect these wooden clocks.</span><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman", serif; font-size: 12pt;"> </span><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman", serif; font-size: 12pt;">With high humidity the wood can swell and
stop the clock.</span><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman", serif; font-size: 12pt;"> </span><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman", serif; font-size: 12pt;">In very humid conditions
I simply do nothing.</span><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman", serif; font-size: 12pt;"> </span><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman", serif; font-size: 12pt;">It is best to do
nothing because as the atmospheric conditions change the clock will begin
running well again.</span><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman", serif; font-size: 12pt;"> </span><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman", serif; font-size: 12pt;">The Woodworker’s
Hygrometer is an excellent kinetic sculpture for detecting these changes in
humidity.</span></p><p></p>Lisa Boyerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00456582868505590514noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3101425646366692625.post-65599067892343670652020-11-01T11:53:00.002-10:002020-11-19T14:44:27.123-10:00Balancing the Pallets, Escape Wheel and Pendulum<p><i><span style="color: black; font-family: inherit; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"></span></i></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><i><span style="color: black; font-family: inherit; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><i style="font-family: inherit; text-align: left;"><span style="color: black; font-family: inherit; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhKu4nyyAzIAdW-qp0OrncoT7DIpuwTeAgHj46mLLhI5wYQWijRK1Ak3R8ODmDcCCLlc4QuiqrT_Ot_wI8Fgb_QthGtmk_gEi-mAvIg2-9qPjlku12wLVXDfOi7CFQr8VsnX4mts2F3ySQb/s636/simplicity_close.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="636" data-original-width="429" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhKu4nyyAzIAdW-qp0OrncoT7DIpuwTeAgHj46mLLhI5wYQWijRK1Ak3R8ODmDcCCLlc4QuiqrT_Ot_wI8Fgb_QthGtmk_gEi-mAvIg2-9qPjlku12wLVXDfOi7CFQr8VsnX4mts2F3ySQb/s320/simplicity_close.jpg" /></a></div><br />Bill C asks: How do you time the
escape wheel </span><span style="font-family: inherit;">and the pallet to the
crutch and pendulum bob? This would help me set the pallet on the </span><span style="font-family: inherit;">escape wheel and to know
if the pendulum bob should be plum to vertical level.</span><span style="font-family: inherit;"> T</span><span style="font-family: inherit;">hanks for your
help.</span></i></span></i></div><p></p><p></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="color: #26282a; font-family: "Times New Roman", serif;">Aloha Bill, you are
correct, the three components, pallets, escape wheel and pendulum, all need to
be adjusted to each other to have the clock run correctly.</span><span style="color: #26282a; font-family: "Times New Roman", serif;"> </span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="color: #26282a; font-family: "Times New Roman", serif;">First start with
rounding and balancing the wheel, and then go to setting the pallets to the escape
wheel. You'll find how to manually check the function of your pallets and
escape wheel in the FAQ section of my site. Links to this, and more, are
at the bottom of my main page.</span><span style="color: #26282a; font-family: "Times New Roman", serif;"> </span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="color: #26282a; font-family: "Times New Roman", serif;">Once you have a round
escape wheel and have tested that the pallets work around it a full 360* (I
usually go around multiple times just to be sure), then you can set the
pendulum to the pallets so that you get a good, strong, even tick-tock.</span><span style="color: #26282a; font-family: "Times New Roman", serif;"> </span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="color: #26282a; font-family: "Times New Roman", serif;">You mention a
vertical, plumb pendulum rod...that's not the way pallets are set, however I
can give you a little hint to what it should look like...with the pendulum
stopped, one of the escape teeth should be resting about halfway up the pallet
face. I stopped my Simplicity this morning to take this picture for you.</span><span style="color: #26282a; font-family: "Times New Roman", serif;"> </span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="color: #26282a; font-family: "Times New Roman", serif;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhWZ6OuNWQNT3ha3LekKIAGftgUkMXtm1iGK6GTBwMChU1M2M_Z_2-3q9kA2SrjyFPE20gL63tMnIh8cCQ1gfbjNqSm_oMJ8woh_C_VwpycC-ZbqqIMDgvRb6L7rrTC218gfJtzuz0TC_5F/s2048/Sim+after+15+years.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhWZ6OuNWQNT3ha3LekKIAGftgUkMXtm1iGK6GTBwMChU1M2M_Z_2-3q9kA2SrjyFPE20gL63tMnIh8cCQ1gfbjNqSm_oMJ8woh_C_VwpycC-ZbqqIMDgvRb6L7rrTC218gfJtzuz0TC_5F/s320/Sim+after+15+years.JPG" width="320" /></a></span></div><p></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="color: #26282a; font-family: "Times New Roman", serif;">When you move the
pendulum to free the escape tooth, the other escape tooth should come into
contact with the other pallet face in about the same location when the pendulum
is at rest. On a round escape wheel with nicely made pallets, the tooth
should be at rest in about the same position on this second pallet face as on
the first pallet face.</span><span style="color: #26282a; font-family: "Times New Roman", serif;"> </span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="color: #26282a; font-family: "Times New Roman", serif;">Rounding the escape
wheel to its center arbor is important. I mount my escape wheel on a
board with an upright rod in the wheel's center hole and clamp that to my
sander. Find the lowest tooth on the escape wheel and turn the wheel so
all the teeth are sanded to that height. Or, better yet, if you have left
the paper pattern on the escape wheel, turn the escape wheel, sanding around
the wheel so that the black line on the pattern just barely disappears.
Now we know that all the teeth are the same height with respect to the center
arbor hole.</span><span style="color: #26282a; font-family: "Times New Roman", serif;"> </span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="color: #26282a; font-family: "Times New Roman", serif;">Balancing the wheels
is important also, and a balanced wheel is most important at the escape
wheel. Stick a rod in the arbor hole of the wheel assembly and the low
side is the heavy side. Lighten it by drilling or sanding away some of
the back of the wheel, or adjusting the size of the wheel's cut out design by
sanding some away.</span><span style="color: #26282a; font-family: "Times New Roman", serif;"> </span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="color: #26282a; font-family: "Times New Roman", serif;">The photo I'm
including I have named "Simplicity after 15 years". My
Simplicity is actually older than that but I've lost track. In addition
to the pallet/tooth positioning, what I also wanted you to notice in this
picture is the amount of wear on the pallets and escape wheel teeth after the
clock has been running consistently, every day for more than 15 years.
Take a close look...that's right...none!</span><span style="color: #26282a; font-family: "Times New Roman", serif;"> </span></p><p class="MsoNormal"></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgNLK_ZOUUkOIhZidSoKgZTOAKPvww95yt6Ywzv9_BiWfDoLlPbTeIrDia1gIwRNXhTmS9iG6GYJHr63WY1i7hY0_O7aomaxmPRaJJ7dbiPYoDCdnD1gJM-AUM7hHmlQ_OYB7Mo7blnlDOy/s1288/Pallets+001.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1288" data-original-width="996" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgNLK_ZOUUkOIhZidSoKgZTOAKPvww95yt6Ywzv9_BiWfDoLlPbTeIrDia1gIwRNXhTmS9iG6GYJHr63WY1i7hY0_O7aomaxmPRaJJ7dbiPYoDCdnD1gJM-AUM7hHmlQ_OYB7Mo7blnlDOy/s320/Pallets+001.JPG" /></a></div><br /><span style="color: #26282a; font-family: "Times New Roman", serif;"><br /></span><p></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="color: #26282a; font-family: "Times New Roman", serif;">I was just sitting
here thinking...Simplicity ticks once per second, or 3600 times an hour, times
24 hour, times 365 days a year for 15 years - that is well over 473 million
ticks and tocks. No sign of wear, and never a problem...wow!</span><span style="color: #26282a; font-family: "Times New Roman", serif;"> </span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="color: #26282a; font-family: "Times New Roman", serif;">Pretty amazing.
I have a Big Smile on my face right now! That Simplicity looks like it
should still have another two or three centuries of good running left in it.</span><span style="color: #26282a; font-family: "Times New Roman", serif;"> </span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="color: #26282a; font-family: "Times New Roman", serif;">I hope you love your
clock just as much.</span><span style="color: #26282a; font-family: "Times New Roman", serif;"> </span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="color: #26282a; font-family: "Times New Roman", serif;">Enjoy!
Aloha. Clayton<span style="font-size: 12pt;"><o:p></o:p></span></span></p><i><span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: 14pt;"></span></i><p></p>Lisa Boyerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00456582868505590514noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3101425646366692625.post-89005818194832050292020-03-18T07:33:00.002-10:002020-03-18T07:33:40.572-10:00Tooth Surface Finish<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiav0ggVHeFptir-w3J7AGhzYYVxxyhrnTcy0KaJ7OUoCCUfqtnuEWpVuTovxBbT5A6kNrwQ_q0ixbsAKXpKKN6kJ8-isHnaqejX1LAWwdbcUDIiDTN_kvWBprkiXlklbUxvgpmFtJuVjlg/s1600/Swingtimeclose300.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="300" data-original-width="418" height="229" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiav0ggVHeFptir-w3J7AGhzYYVxxyhrnTcy0KaJ7OUoCCUfqtnuEWpVuTovxBbT5A6kNrwQ_q0ixbsAKXpKKN6kJ8-isHnaqejX1LAWwdbcUDIiDTN_kvWBprkiXlklbUxvgpmFtJuVjlg/s320/Swingtimeclose300.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">SwingTime Teeth</td></tr>
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<span style="color: #26282a; font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">Spray lacquer is the
only thing I'll use on teeth, and even at that I try to avoid getting too much
into the tooth surfaces. I spray from the center of the wheel out and try
to avoid the tooth surfaces. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="color: #26282a; font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">We did some testing on
the Weird Gears Shark Bait. It is a hand operated kinetic
sculpture. We tested without any finish, with finish sprayed from the
center, and then with finish sprayed into the tooth surfaces. The last
was a bad idea. Finish on the tooth surfaces greatly increased internal
friction. It takes up space and also fluffs up the wood making for
excessive internal friction.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="color: #26282a; font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">It is best to avoid
any finish on the tooth surfaces, but if you must, use spray lacquer
lightly. It dries hard, but still, on humid days it is subject to
moisture in the air that will make it tacky.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<br /></div>
<span style="color: #26282a; font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">Conclusion: finish on the tooth surfaces is just
not worth it.</span><br />
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Lisa Boyerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00456582868505590514noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3101425646366692625.post-71412877654191823012019-06-08T13:30:00.000-10:002019-06-08T13:31:43.072-10:00Adjusting the Flags of the Wee Willie Clock<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiSa_uqNqzK418KsW13e2ylonxUcD7LZFf1iaAhc97iOZ6ntOu8-ArZFDEiV8tjazQazSN1vBkerh3SUrWiML7iK0oJePHzWJ0qy7BHe51AbLW81dUsBRJJrjSoZzwH_OHh-sqRZ-2IntxG/s1600/willieflags.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="640" data-original-width="392" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiSa_uqNqzK418KsW13e2ylonxUcD7LZFf1iaAhc97iOZ6ntOu8-ArZFDEiV8tjazQazSN1vBkerh3SUrWiML7iK0oJePHzWJ0qy7BHe51AbLW81dUsBRJJrjSoZzwH_OHh-sqRZ-2IntxG/s400/willieflags.jpg" width="245" /></a></div>
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<span style="color: #26282a; font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 12.0pt;"><i>A builder needed help adjusting the flags of the Wee Willie clock. He sent the above picture and question to Clayton and here is Clayton's response:</i></span></div>
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<span style="color: #26282a; font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 12.0pt;"><br /></span></div>
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<span style="color: #26282a; font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 12.0pt;">Thanks for sending the
picture, Frank. Helps a lot.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="color: #26282a; font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 12.0pt;">It looks like you
simply need, in one of the ways listed below, to alter the distance between the
pins and your flags by a tiny bit. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="color: #26282a; font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 12.0pt;">You want <i>just
enough</i> clearance from the time the one pin leaves the flag to the
moment that its opposing pin contacts the other flag. Apparently you
can't get that clearance with the way the pins are set into the escape wheel
(crown wheel), or because the center wheel arbor pivot hole is too far back, or
because the crown wheel is too far forward, or because the flags are just a
hair too long.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="color: #26282a; font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 12.0pt;">Here are some options
to try;<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="color: #26282a; font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 12.0pt;">1) The simplest route,
if you have the room, it to simply move the center arbor forward a bit.
That will relocate the verge pivot hole so that you may have room to allow the
flags more freedom. You'll need to slightly adjust the loop up at
the top, too.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="color: #26282a; font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 12.0pt;">2) You can measure the
distance from the end of the escape pin to the end of the flag, divide by two
and shorten each flag at the sander. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="color: #26282a; font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 12.0pt;">3) Instead of
shortening the flags you could opt to push the escape pins <i>into</i> the
escape wheel just a hair, but if your pins already all at the same height it
would probably be the best course to simply shorten the flags.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="color: #26282a; font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 12.0pt;">4) You could also
simply bend the existing flags into a bowed, or "C" shape. One
flag bowed one way and the other bowed the other. Bending them in such a
manner would shorten them but still allow you to avoid sanding to shorten the
straight flags you have right now. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="color: #26282a; font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 12.0pt;">So there are four
possibilities. Personally, I think I'd first move the arbor forward and
if that didn't work, try bowing the flags. By bending them out, and then
back in again you automatically shorten them so that the escape pins can be
alternatively released and caught.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 12pt;">One of those options should get
your Wee Willie swinging happily.</span><span style="color: #26282a; font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 12.0pt;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="color: #26282a; font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 12.0pt;">Keep me
posted. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="color: #26282a; font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 12.0pt;">Enjoy!</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhT6NyID9JjdA-QPCMhKORl_3Cg-_US8sr_CwZO1ityzTc-EuHLoHO4QGg-SjHSjOsNP4-BGo-b2ygnITP1TbCSJUAYe4O8t5XR6r-CFEjL9zl8b5LrR-R9jKVVv6Ig9hJ_RrKdvwZHlp21/s1600/weewilliefull.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="450" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhT6NyID9JjdA-QPCMhKORl_3Cg-_US8sr_CwZO1ityzTc-EuHLoHO4QGg-SjHSjOsNP4-BGo-b2ygnITP1TbCSJUAYe4O8t5XR6r-CFEjL9zl8b5LrR-R9jKVVv6Ig9hJ_RrKdvwZHlp21/s320/weewilliefull.jpg" width="240" /></a></div>
<o:p></o:p><br />
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Lisa Boyerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00456582868505590514noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3101425646366692625.post-28685654988585305562019-03-09T13:48:00.000-10:002019-03-09T13:50:41.760-10:00Zinnia Run Time Question<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<iframe allowfullscreen="" class="YOUTUBE-iframe-video" data-thumbnail-src="https://i.ytimg.com/vi/--O9eyKIubY/0.jpg" frameborder="0" height="266" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/--O9eyKIubY?feature=player_embedded" width="320"></iframe><br />
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<span style="font-family: inherit;"><i><span style="color: #26282a;">Dear Clayton, I</span><span style="color: #26282a;"> have 2
questions:</span><span style="color: #26282a;"> </span></i></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="color: #26282a;"><i><br /></i></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit;"><i><span style="color: #26282a;">1. Is it
necessary to have a full wind for successful long run time?</span><span style="color: #26282a;"> </span><span style="color: #26282a;">2. Is balancing
wheels critical for proper operation ?</span><span style="color: #26282a;">Thanks
for any info. Don</span></i></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="color: #26282a;"><br /></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="color: #26282a;"><br /></span><span style="color: #26282a;">Aloha Don, </span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="color: #26282a;"><br /></span></span>
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="color: #26282a;"> </span><span style="color: #26282a;">Answer to question 1)
The length of the run time depends on a number of things, but the main factor
in determining run time is the number of winds of the spring. The
Neg'ator springs I recommend will give a run time of about 40 minutes.
Other constant force springs may be used, however their length is usually <i>much
</i>shorter (for example; 22" or 560mm versus 106" or 2690mm) and
will give a proportionally shorter run time. (using these spring examples
means a difference between an 8 minute of run time and the 40 minutes).</span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="color: #26282a;"><br /></span></span>
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="color: #26282a;">We have also found
that the Zinnia run time can be dramatically increased by eliminating the
grease from the bearings. For our light duty kinetic sculpture purposes
the grease inside the bearings actually <i>increases </i>the internal friction
and can cause shortened run times.</span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="color: #26282a;"><br /></span></span>
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="color: #26282a;"> </span><span style="color: #26282a;">By soaking the
bearings overnight in mineral spirits and washing out the grease we've been
able to double (in some cases) the run time of the Zinnia. </span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="color: #26282a;"><br /></span></span>
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="color: #26282a;"> </span><span style="color: #26282a;">I do recommend adding
a drop of clock or light oil back into the bearings...but I think this may be
mainly superstition as there is probably still sufficient lubrication for our
purposes.</span><span style="color: #26282a;"> </span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="color: #26282a;"><br /></span></span>
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="color: #26282a;">Answer to question 2)
The wheels of the Zinnia are first balanced and then unbalanced with the
unbalancing weights that are attached behind the wheels. Recommending
that the wheels be balanced first allows me to specify in the Zinnia plans
which arms are the best for the placement of the imbalancing weights.</span><span style="color: #26282a;"> </span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="color: #26282a;"><br /></span></span>
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="color: #26282a;">Balancing is not
particularly critical as the unbalancing weights can be placed on different
arms to get the sculpture to run. However, I build my plans primarily for
the beginner, and I must make sure that if my instructions are followed the
chances of success are going to be good.</span><span style="color: #26282a;"> </span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="color: #26282a;"><br /></span></span>
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="color: #26282a;">Experienced builders
could (possibly) disregard my instructions and still make the sculpture
work...so..."critical"...no, but recommended.</span><span style="color: #26282a;"> </span><span style="color: #26282a;">Enjoy! </span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="color: #26282a;"><br /></span></span>
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="color: #26282a;"> Aloha. Clayton</span></span></div>
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Lisa Boyerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00456582868505590514noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3101425646366692625.post-3791873447093283672018-11-16T13:52:00.001-10:002018-11-16T13:52:40.868-10:00New! Elfino Kinetic Sculpture<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<iframe width="320" height="266" class="YOUTUBE-iframe-video" data-thumbnail-src="https://i.ytimg.com/vi/JVPtskblnzE/0.jpg" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/JVPtskblnzE?feature=player_embedded" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe></div>
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Introducing Elfino!</div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiYTCZfCQyhv2BL2qTaOi3EwPfWXqlcnwhC39fevsqj4F-XuQXAVb8ej3QLfisdACUo4StAv_5zfaTVFiXYSKLsAG9ACAUg0M4gSSqFvX5Ve61Ub8tPnzfDKS2gNS5m7vzypjGu96XMphlZ/s1600/elfinofull.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="540" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiYTCZfCQyhv2BL2qTaOi3EwPfWXqlcnwhC39fevsqj4F-XuQXAVb8ej3QLfisdACUo4StAv_5zfaTVFiXYSKLsAG9ACAUg0M4gSSqFvX5Ve61Ub8tPnzfDKS2gNS5m7vzypjGu96XMphlZ/s320/elfinofull.jpg" width="107" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Elfino Kinetic Sculpture</td></tr>
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Clayton's description from our website:</div>
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<span style="text-align: justify;">This is Elfino, an excellent introduction into the wonderful world of kinetic sculptures and a delight to watch. Elfino is a simple-to-build spring driven wall mounted sculpture with a long yet variable run time. The Elfino can be configured to gently sway at the speed you see in the video below. This configuration will give about an hour run time. Alternatively, the Elfino can be configured to run more slowly giving it a significantly longer run time.</span></div>
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Lisa Boyerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00456582868505590514noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3101425646366692625.post-68733354226210341122018-11-15T14:42:00.003-10:002018-11-15T14:42:36.049-10:00New! Balancing Bubbles Kinetic Sculpture<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<iframe width="320" height="266" class="YOUTUBE-iframe-video" data-thumbnail-src="https://i.ytimg.com/vi/gcqLhm_QG5M/0.jpg" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/gcqLhm_QG5M?feature=player_embedded" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe></div>
Balancing Bubbles is a delightful electromagnetically impulsed kinetic sculpture. It doesn't just spin. It will rock awhile and spin a bit and then completely change directions and begin rocking and spinning the opposite way. The anticipation is such fun. Like the bowler or golfer using their body to help guide their ball, in the video below you may find your "body English" trying to assist the bubble over the top. More details at our website, www.lisaboyer.com<br />
<br />
Stay tuned because more new plans will be posted in the next few days. I tell you, Clayton has been busy!</div>
Lisa Boyerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00456582868505590514noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3101425646366692625.post-59274291527010192912018-11-11T15:16:00.001-10:002018-11-11T15:16:52.511-10:00New! Woodworker's Hygrometer<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhIJSIawlqFSE-_xQsbPGDm2T-ov8x1wyJ7EONP-G8KSLRCDNoxv21u26bqndvN9oHm6zs_SjW_DvwhSubbZS1RqLiGgJeaws8eeT7c_oUOHktlJhbqylcBDOhupnKIwc2fZfSh-lX9zSrZ/s1600/hygrometermain600.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="776" height="247" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhIJSIawlqFSE-_xQsbPGDm2T-ov8x1wyJ7EONP-G8KSLRCDNoxv21u26bqndvN9oHm6zs_SjW_DvwhSubbZS1RqLiGgJeaws8eeT7c_oUOHktlJhbqylcBDOhupnKIwc2fZfSh-lX9zSrZ/s320/hygrometermain600.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit;">New at www.lisaboyer.com! Have you ever wondered how the ambient humidity is affecting your wooden clock or kinetic sculpture? This beautiful sculpture is the answer. The Woodworker's Hygrometer will tell you at a glance in a most beautiful way.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit;">Stay tuned, as we have a couple more plans nearly ready for release on our website. Clayton has been busy!</span></div>
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<span style="color: yellow;"><br /></span></div>
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Lisa Boyerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00456582868505590514noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3101425646366692625.post-75204955496652355422018-09-30T11:13:00.000-10:002018-09-30T11:13:06.138-10:00How to Make a Wooden Bearing Pack<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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Some of my designs use phenolic tube for making a simple and
easy to align bearing pack allowing for very free moving arbors and
pendulums.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></div>
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Phenolic tube is easily available and inexpensive in the
U.S., but I have recently found that this may not be the case for some other
countries.</div>
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The following suggestion came from fellow builder Adrian
Iredale in Australia – a country with apparently a copious phenolic scarcity.</div>
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If your country also is suffering from a dearth of phenolic
tubes, or even if you live in a phenolic abundant country and would just
like to try your hand at building a wooden bearing pack, here are the instructions and
pictures on;</div>
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<b><u>How to Make a
Wooden Bearing Pack</u></b> </div>
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to fit 3/8”OD,
3/16”ID, 1/8thickness bearings.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Metric
equivalents may be substituted.</div>
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I didn't take a picture of this, but the first step is to
cut the 1/2” (12mm) dowel to the correct length as described in the plans and
then chuck the dowel into a hand drill.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Get the
drill spinning and mark the center with a pencil - or find some other way to
find the exact center of the dowel.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjbP4iZxmvEgY0Oxc79-FLDL4eUylGAlS8z1Jo-2pFf81aM4TFuqOkNxI72CoX6K8cID1h9EJh9VDDsucnvH-mXygzkUrr73iuGIxbkiOtR-63WSdGvIwcWTyRb6tWWLjU8OdX8Ff94aM7u/s1600/Wood+Bearing+Pack+Tube+%25281%2529.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjbP4iZxmvEgY0Oxc79-FLDL4eUylGAlS8z1Jo-2pFf81aM4TFuqOkNxI72CoX6K8cID1h9EJh9VDDsucnvH-mXygzkUrr73iuGIxbkiOtR-63WSdGvIwcWTyRb6tWWLjU8OdX8Ff94aM7u/s320/Wood+Bearing+Pack+Tube+%25281%2529.JPG" width="240" /></a></div>
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<!--[if !supportLists]--><span style="mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">1)<span style="font: 7.0pt "Times New Roman";">
</span></span></span><!--[endif]-->This picture shows the Jig holding the
dowel.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>To make this Jig, using your
drill press, drill a perfectly vertical hole in a large block of wood to hold a
1/2” (12mm) wood dowel. Then insert a 1/2” dowel of the correct length for your
bearing pack into the vertical Jig and center drill the dowel with a 3/8”
(10mm) brad point drill bit 1/8” (3mm) deep.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiM54GaMxFNFfStPn3PTINH788iwKrvJbG624ShHtUg1hkOcC7F9vAVuLZgEtcWt6YmgBKeNNfBYIk9CTUeg2kGhXfay88YvFL6yX8WVDEUizG_1OePBZhQfblHq3LuFGAOwQh1gjFl-bqv/s1600/Wood+Bearing+Pack+Tube+%25282%2529.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiM54GaMxFNFfStPn3PTINH788iwKrvJbG624ShHtUg1hkOcC7F9vAVuLZgEtcWt6YmgBKeNNfBYIk9CTUeg2kGhXfay88YvFL6yX8WVDEUizG_1OePBZhQfblHq3LuFGAOwQh1gjFl-bqv/s320/Wood+Bearing+Pack+Tube+%25282%2529.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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<!--[if !supportLists]--><span style="mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">2)<span style="font: 7.0pt "Times New Roman";">
</span></span></span><!--[endif]-->Flip the 1/2” dowel over 180* and drill the
other end the same way.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjldy4kBZjiq47MbBOayp-3OLtuKAnSHORTTUu8IHOAZga25fErTb6aXGXdn4ALsqC4a10L-aS68em3spBl8P7_qo06wZHEuhk1h-XAmbpnYsq4ZIOnMCkiqZ3wNggaEKI5n9H9hxOkrya0/s1600/Wood+Bearing+Pack+Tube+%25283%2529.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjldy4kBZjiq47MbBOayp-3OLtuKAnSHORTTUu8IHOAZga25fErTb6aXGXdn4ALsqC4a10L-aS68em3spBl8P7_qo06wZHEuhk1h-XAmbpnYsq4ZIOnMCkiqZ3wNggaEKI5n9H9hxOkrya0/s320/Wood+Bearing+Pack+Tube+%25283%2529.JPG" width="240" /></a></div>
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<!--[if !supportLists]--><span style="mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">3)<span style="font: 7.0pt "Times New Roman";">
</span></span></span><!--[endif]-->Then center drill through from both ends with a
1/4” (6mm) metal twist drill.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The metal twist
drill will center itself better in the center depression that was left by the original 3/8" brad point.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><b>Note</b> that drilling the dowel from both
ends halfway through will better center the 1/4” hole than drilling all the
way through from only one side.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhDWITxg6ORkckV_LvuI0Pd8PJ7pHKoFNidcW17Ote2pOZjBI137lohC3CxrVcSzqDHdJpHqzPloUphZwi8R_p4Dvq7BYJjAFxiCkyNtCI7_6YfTsbakBkhDkUCpOjCp57Nup1LUv0cPsI3/s1600/Wood+Bearing+Pack+Tube+%25284%2529.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhDWITxg6ORkckV_LvuI0Pd8PJ7pHKoFNidcW17Ote2pOZjBI137lohC3CxrVcSzqDHdJpHqzPloUphZwi8R_p4Dvq7BYJjAFxiCkyNtCI7_6YfTsbakBkhDkUCpOjCp57Nup1LUv0cPsI3/s320/Wood+Bearing+Pack+Tube+%25284%2529.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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<!--[if !supportLists]--><span style="mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">4)<span style="font: 7.0pt "Times New Roman";">
</span></span></span><!--[endif]-->Your wooden bearing pack is now ready to load in
the bearings.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgx5AilvMsaNcy-pURA0zadMXAS3RGjyXdNMQ6z8QcYLe2rfxz763esm9GCZajC3ILeabdGl3QZayEDJEnffAvdBp5BJX1v2ObAP8BFSQPDERgfnJigShEEyAfUgvvKhaSBuf8eqCrfRC9f/s1600/Wood+Bearing+Pack+Tube+%25285%2529.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgx5AilvMsaNcy-pURA0zadMXAS3RGjyXdNMQ6z8QcYLe2rfxz763esm9GCZajC3ILeabdGl3QZayEDJEnffAvdBp5BJX1v2ObAP8BFSQPDERgfnJigShEEyAfUgvvKhaSBuf8eqCrfRC9f/s320/Wood+Bearing+Pack+Tube+%25285%2529.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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<!--[if !supportLists]--><span style="mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">5)<span style="font: 7.0pt "Times New Roman";">
</span></span></span><!--[endif]-->Bearings are pressed into place at both ends.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiGhhdRYpWcEruG29YpzXGGvAyO2ATKg5Y0hAaXZRyodjD54aHHX8flCQUg7JVqN87DZ6SG-seVoeni-3qEY0xRkPonHpwivmbv36xRVQ4uSAzEKOPzJvawQTRUHqpUsgllCFiHjkVMkHKs/s1600/Wood+Bearing+Pack+Tube+%25286%2529.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiGhhdRYpWcEruG29YpzXGGvAyO2ATKg5Y0hAaXZRyodjD54aHHX8flCQUg7JVqN87DZ6SG-seVoeni-3qEY0xRkPonHpwivmbv36xRVQ4uSAzEKOPzJvawQTRUHqpUsgllCFiHjkVMkHKs/s320/Wood+Bearing+Pack+Tube+%25286%2529.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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<!--[if !supportLists]--><span style="mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">6)<span style="font: 7.0pt "Times New Roman";">
</span></span></span><!--[endif]-->The 3/16” (5mm) brass rod may need some
reduction in its diameter to fit easily into some bearings.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I used 220 sandpaper on a 3/16” brass rod
that was chucked and spinning in the drill press.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Test frequently for a good bearing fit.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhBrhc7v6KwXoiqNNRlOOldxP29BMjuEv0PHWXKZ5V4CQATajLDDuex5KHKKKr49d0eiAgd8pp_orV8qbGT0R6E3a40ZsPTZnW-ygTkl-Yz1BE5bDGsBzEIsQXbgXbPsSKaKwmRe0KWmpzp/s1600/Wood+Bearing+Pack+Tube+%25287%2529.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhBrhc7v6KwXoiqNNRlOOldxP29BMjuEv0PHWXKZ5V4CQATajLDDuex5KHKKKr49d0eiAgd8pp_orV8qbGT0R6E3a40ZsPTZnW-ygTkl-Yz1BE5bDGsBzEIsQXbgXbPsSKaKwmRe0KWmpzp/s320/Wood+Bearing+Pack+Tube+%25287%2529.JPG" width="240" /></a></div>
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<!--[if !supportLists]--><span style="mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">7)<span style="font: 7.0pt "Times New Roman";">
</span></span></span><!--[endif]-->Then the sanded-to-fit 3/16” rod was polished
with buffing compound inside a folded leather strop.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhoJ4Ch09GiU6deFG3bZK9KjvxMTRbxgmljlMQmDGN1hUcAaNMa8RzvZ1cYEKT8P1BNv881ttVxVRqMkcFnxqwbH-XYGHYq32moCtNAh3E20cYA9_daxEUJTZIC_3HrsvVqGeo0gl3kVeaP/s1600/Wood+Bearing+Pack+Tube+%25288%2529.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhoJ4Ch09GiU6deFG3bZK9KjvxMTRbxgmljlMQmDGN1hUcAaNMa8RzvZ1cYEKT8P1BNv881ttVxVRqMkcFnxqwbH-XYGHYq32moCtNAh3E20cYA9_daxEUJTZIC_3HrsvVqGeo0gl3kVeaP/s320/Wood+Bearing+Pack+Tube+%25288%2529.JPG" width="240" /></a></div>
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Note that all drill bits are not created equally.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>In picture 2 you will see that I am using my
now famous and inexpensively priced “Wobble Point” Vermont American brad point
drill bit.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>That is because I want the
bearing to be a press fit into the wood, and this bit cuts a tight 3/8” hole,
whereas my expensive Lee Valley brad point bits all tend to cut holes that are
a bit oversized which would create a hole into which the bearing may fit too
loosely.</div>
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Wood dowels are also not created equally.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> To be sure that I find a well fitting 1/2" dowel </span>I would first drill a 1/2" hole in a piece of scrap ply
and take the scrap to the hardware store. With this procedure I am sure that I will find a nice
round, straight, snug-fitting dowel that fits the hole correctly.</div>
<br /></div>
Lisa Boyerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00456582868505590514noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3101425646366692625.post-69855927836176209632018-02-06T12:31:00.001-10:002018-02-06T12:32:13.196-10:00How Much Drive Weight Does My Clock Need? Factors<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<span style="color: black; font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><br /></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica, sans-serif;"><i>Hello Clayton,</i></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica, sans-serif;"><i><br /></i></span></div>
<br />
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<i><span style="font-family: Helvetica, sans-serif;">My
grandfather is now reading your explanations and has a question about the
weight that is needed for the copper weights. </span><span style="font-family: Helvetica, sans-serif;">Is it
necessary that these weights are approximately 6 pounds and 1 pound (we don’t
know the exact needed weight of the small contra weight) or can this also be
different weights in the same equation? For example; 3 pounds and ½ pound.</span></i></div>
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica, sans-serif;"><i><br /></i></span></div>
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<i><span style="font-family: Helvetica, sans-serif;">Kind regards,</span><span style="font-family: Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;"><o:p></o:p></span></i></div>
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica, sans-serif;"><i>Nick</i></span></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjSLcT-IbSg8FwCkqKiH4P6grb5Xf485qPAOKSjKv8T-DwZ8w25m5IoRhGOggfGD78DSPjCf1dl-5iWm7aNkdqPP5LoaxnGiRno4BPGGmRKrImEhfDf_JPMI9xC_dbZrdtVCtacq8plu1iS/s1600/Genesis+by+Isaac+Neuman+3.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1027" data-original-width="396" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjSLcT-IbSg8FwCkqKiH4P6grb5Xf485qPAOKSjKv8T-DwZ8w25m5IoRhGOggfGD78DSPjCf1dl-5iWm7aNkdqPP5LoaxnGiRno4BPGGmRKrImEhfDf_JPMI9xC_dbZrdtVCtacq8plu1iS/s320/Genesis+by+Isaac+Neuman+3.jpg" width="121" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Genesis by Clockmaker Isaac Neuman (demonstrating weights)</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<span style="color: black; font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">Aloha Nick, in the Genesis design there is no weight in the small
counterweight tube. The Genesis counterweight tube remains empty.
The purpose of the counterweight tube is only aesthetic, allowing the clock to
look balanced, and to keep the wind cord from tangling.</span><o:p></o:p></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="background: white;">
<span style="color: black; font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><span id="yiv9521807984yui_3_16_0_1_1517937533719_42273">The large
tube is the weight tube that contains the mass that drives the clock. </span><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="background: white;">
<span style="color: black; font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><span id="yiv9521807984yui_3_16_0_1_1517937533719_42245">As the
clock runs, the drive weight slowly lowers toward the floor. The Genesis
is then rewound by pulling down on the counterweight tube while gently lifting
the drive weight tube back up toward the clock. As the clock runs the
drive weight goes down, and the counterweight goes up toward the clock again.</span><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="background: white;">
<span style="color: black; font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><span id="yiv9521807984yui_3_16_0_1_1517937533719_42033">The exact
weight necessary to drive any clock is to be determined at the end of the
build, and depends upon the craftsmanship that the builder has put into the
clock. Poor craftsmanship leaves excess internal friction in the clock's
train, and good craftsmanship leaves much less internal friction. It is
the amount of internal friction left in each individual clock that determines
the actual drive weight.</span><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="background: white;">
<span style="color: black; font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><span id="yiv9521807984yui_3_16_0_1_1517937533719_42329">The
Genesis's recommended "six or seven pounds" of drive weight is
actually excessive. My Genesis runs on about three pounds of drive
weight, but because Genesis is a beginners clock, I expect there may be room
for some improvement in craftsmanship, and I want everyone to be able to hear
their clock tick. A well made Genesis should run easily on half of the
recommended drive weight, with zero pounds in the counterweight tube.</span><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="background: white;">
<span style="color: black; font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><span id="yiv9521807984yui_3_16_0_1_1517937533719_42330">If a
builder wants to know how much drive weight his clock takes to run, I have him
add enough drive weight to get his clock running and then put a scale on the
floor under the drive weight. When the clock stops with the drive weight
on the scale he can simply read the number of pounds of drive weight required
off of the scale. I then recommend adding back an additional ten percent
of that amount to keep the clock running during humid days.</span><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="background: white;">
<span style="color: black; font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><span id="yiv9521807984yui_3_16_0_1_1517937533719_42789">BTW, be
sure to read over the section on "Depthing" in my FAQ's to help find
and eliminate any residual internal friction that may be left in the clock's
train. </span><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="background: white;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="background: white;">
<span style="color: black; font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><span id="yiv9521807984yui_3_16_0_1_1517937533719_42792">Three of
the very best things a builder can do to get their clock running nicely is 1)
following the Depthing procedure, 2) not get any finish on the tooth surfaces
of the gears, and 3) not add any brass tube bushings unless specifically called
for in the plans.</span><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<br /></div>
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<span style="color: black; font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><span id="yiv9521807984yui_3_16_0_1_1517937533719_42331">Enjoy!
Aloha. Clayton</span><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<br /></div>
Lisa Boyerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00456582868505590514noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3101425646366692625.post-31274089505866019772018-01-14T13:40:00.000-10:002018-01-14T13:40:11.423-10:00Tooth Forms, Including Involute Tooth Form<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<span style="font-size: 12pt;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">Bob L. emails: <i>Hi, </i></span></span><span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: 12pt;"><i>I am considering your
Toucan clock plans. I have a little past experience in gear design, and
am thinking of making the gears by a different method than scroll sawing.
Because of this, I wonder if you tell me:</i></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: 12pt;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><i>1) Do the gears in
the Toucan have the common "involute" profile or are they a different
profile??<o:p></o:p></i></span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="background: white;">
<span style="font-size: 12pt;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><i>2) What diametral
pitch are gears in the Toucan??</i></span></span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgrZGCCwAxwW-ZcIXhBNvtgq3NSFr1GtpgL85sW3pVR5JdRo68ts4_-E_TfBStVPI2XDVj93uUi-Kf4UBBiIQhmnOYQsQgqYJDyFMpCVc-sqsitl59x3AMzKxsiHPLW1p9rnJoKGJt14lno/s1600/toucanfull.gif" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="636" data-original-width="426" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgrZGCCwAxwW-ZcIXhBNvtgq3NSFr1GtpgL85sW3pVR5JdRo68ts4_-E_TfBStVPI2XDVj93uUi-Kf4UBBiIQhmnOYQsQgqYJDyFMpCVc-sqsitl59x3AMzKxsiHPLW1p9rnJoKGJt14lno/s200/toucanfull.gif" width="133" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Toucan by Jeff Hecht</td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman", serif; font-size: 12pt;">Aloha Bob, it is nice to hear from you and I'm glad you enjoyed
viewing my site. The Toucan is a wonderful, fun and easy to build
clock. It's my top design engendering the creativity and personalization
of the various builders. You can see many of their delightful "brain
children" in the Flickr' pool of builder' pix (link on the Toucan order
page). Those pix really are worth viewing for some great ideas.</span></div>
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<o:p></o:p></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman", serif; font-size: 12pt;"><span id="yiv5380050133yui_3_16_0_ym19_1_1515419628806_240851">And
how can I say that it is easy to build? Because when you are looking
through the Flickr' pool of builder's pix the first one is of a 13 year old boy
that successfully built the Toucan. Of course, maybe he's just a
genius(?).</span><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman", serif; font-size: 12pt;">Gear design is a very popular topic and lots of time is spent on
gear design in engineering books. I write many pages in my book about
gear design as it relates to wooden clock building, and I really do need to
create a blog post about the topic.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman", serif; font-size: 12pt;">First we have to ask ourselves what the purpose of the gears
really is, and what is their real function? <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman", serif; font-size: 12pt;">We could simply have two circles turning edge to edge and get the
same ratio, but without the addendums and dedendums (the uppity and downity
parts of the tooth) of spur gears our circle gears could easily slip.
Slippage would cause a deficiency of the transmission of the driving force
through the system, but more than that, in a clock slipping wheels would also
cause the hands to show the incorrect time and even cause a desynchronization
of the relationship of the minute to hour hands. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman", serif; font-size: 12pt;">However, that does not mean we cannot use edge driven circles in
our clock designs. Take a look at my Horologium and you'll see that the
hour wheel is actually a pulley run by the drive weight cord. The gear
ratio is maintained by the barrel diameters of the drive pulley and hour
wheel. <a href="http://www.lisaboyer.com/Claytonsite/horologium.htm" shape="rect" target="_blank">http://www.lisaboyer.com/Claytonsite/horologium.htm</a><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman", serif; font-size: 12pt;">So basically the "teeth" on a gear do two things for us;
they efficiently transmit the driving force, and by doing so they prevent
misalignment caused by slippage of the wheels.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman", serif; font-size: 12pt;">When we are contemplating tooth forms for a particular mechanism,
a couple other things that need consideration is the speed of transmission of
the drive force, and the direction of that force through the gear
train. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman", serif; font-size: 12pt;">In a clock the transmission of force is extremely slow. In
the normal grandfather clock the fastest wheel only turns one revolution per
minute. This slow transmission of forces allows for some very forgiving
tooth forms. There are medieval metal clocks that are still operational
with simple triangular shaped tooth forms. Some of the teeth in the very
early wooden clocks were created with hand tools and look as though some teeth
were hacked into shape. These inefficiency of these irregularities and
imperfections many times can easily be overcome with a bit more drive
weight. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman", serif; font-size: 12pt;">It is only when we have gears rapidly moving together that we
actually need the perfect involute gears with close tolerances that we've all
learned about in physics class. There are other very efficient ways of
transmitting power through the system without the use of involute gears.
Take a look at my Vortex. Vortex has straight sided teeth on all of its
gears. Straight sided gear teeth are about as far from the perfect
involute curve as you can get. Scroll down the page a little further and
take a look at the side view and you'll see how I created the roller lantern
pinions that perfectly match with the straight sided tooth forms of the wheels
to give excellent power transmission and minimize contact friction. <a href="http://www.lisaboyer.com/Claytonsite/vortexpage1.htm" shape="rect" target="_blank">http://www.lisaboyer.com/Claytonsite/vortexpage1.htm</a><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman", serif; font-size: 12pt;">And the last thing to consider is the direction of the forces
transmitted through the gears. Clocks run in only once direction.
Clocks do not ever run in reverse. That means that the back side of the
gear tooth never gets used and can be created in any form that the designer
favors, as long as it does not interfere with the incoming tooth from the other
gear. Most of the time we simply make it a mirrored reflection of the
front side of the tooth, but that mirroring is not necessary since that back
side of the tooth is never used in a clock.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman", serif; font-size: 12pt;">Most all of my tooth designs are of a modified involute design
because even as forgiving as these wonderful mechanisms are one of the goals of
a good design is to try and decrease the amount of driving force
required. Involute-like teeth help with that, but as we've discussed
above involute tooth forms have no particular spiritual holiness sent from the
God of Physics. This gives us a tremendous latitude in design. We
can make our teeth straight sided, curved sided, or perfectly involute, but I
have to chuckle because whatever tooth form we choose, we still don't need the
back of it.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman", serif; font-size: 12pt;">Enjoy! Aloha. Clayton<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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Lisa Boyerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00456582868505590514noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3101425646366692625.post-35299123548071690542017-12-24T12:06:00.001-10:002018-01-14T13:29:33.841-10:00The Tea Dipper<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<iframe width="320" height="266" class="YOUTUBE-iframe-video" data-thumbnail-src="https://i.ytimg.com/vi/VfvSoW6YQfA/0.jpg" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/VfvSoW6YQfA?feature=player_embedded" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe></div>
New! Clayton's uber-cute, animal-interchangeable, smile-inducing, tea dipping machine! Plans available now at www.lisaboyer.com <br />
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Our friend Adrian Iredale has been as busy as a Christmas elf making this hand-cranked version for his family for Christmas Day:<br />
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<iframe width="320" height="266" class="YOUTUBE-iframe-video" data-thumbnail-src="https://i.ytimg.com/vi/UvdSbu6Mfh0/0.jpg" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/UvdSbu6Mfh0?feature=player_embedded" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe></div>
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As usual, Adrian did such a wonderful job on his video (and I just love his accent, don't you?), and look at his googly-eyed bear! Thanks, Adrian, for being the friend and intrepid test builder that you are. If you like this video, you should check out his YouTube channel, because he's quite the builder of...well...everything! Watch and be amazed: <a href="https://www.youtube.com/user/adrianiredale/videos">Adrian Iredale Videos on YouTube</a></div>
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Happy Holidays from Clayton and Lisa Boyer! </div>
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Lisa Boyerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00456582868505590514noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3101425646366692625.post-8865270613083420902017-12-23T08:13:00.000-10:002017-12-24T11:53:03.620-10:00Happy Holidays from Boyer Designs!<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<iframe allowfullscreen="" class="YOUTUBE-iframe-video" data-thumbnail-src="https://i.ytimg.com/vi/FTomq0RmAnI/0.jpg" frameborder="0" height="266" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/FTomq0RmAnI?feature=player_embedded" width="320"></iframe></div>
New! The Tea Dipper kinetic sculpture--this is the Holiday Version. <strike>Plans available VERY SOON at www.lisaboyer.com....maybe even today!</strike> Plans available now at www.lisaboyer.com ! The sculpture has a doggie and bear tea dipping version, but we just couldn't resist showing you this silly reindeer version today and wishing you Happy Holidays.</div>
Lisa Boyerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00456582868505590514noreply@blogger.com0