Hello Clayton,
My
grandfather is now reading your explanations and has a question about the
weight that is needed for the copper weights. Is it
necessary that these weights are approximately 6 pounds and 1 pound (we don’t
know the exact needed weight of the small contra weight) or can this also be
different weights in the same equation? For example; 3 pounds and ½ pound.
Kind regards,
Nick
 |
| Genesis by Clockmaker Isaac Neuman (demonstrating weights) |
Aloha Nick, in the Genesis design there is no weight in the small
counterweight tube. The Genesis counterweight tube remains empty.
The purpose of the counterweight tube is only aesthetic, allowing the clock to
look balanced, and to keep the wind cord from tangling.
The large
tube is the weight tube that contains the mass that drives the clock.
As the
clock runs, the drive weight slowly lowers toward the floor. The Genesis
is then rewound by pulling down on the counterweight tube while gently lifting
the drive weight tube back up toward the clock. As the clock runs the
drive weight goes down, and the counterweight goes up toward the clock again.
The exact
weight necessary to drive any clock is to be determined at the end of the
build, and depends upon the craftsmanship that the builder has put into the
clock. Poor craftsmanship leaves excess internal friction in the clock's
train, and good craftsmanship leaves much less internal friction. It is
the amount of internal friction left in each individual clock that determines
the actual drive weight.
The
Genesis's recommended "six or seven pounds" of drive weight is
actually excessive. My Genesis runs on about three pounds of drive
weight, but because Genesis is a beginners clock, I expect there may be room
for some improvement in craftsmanship, and I want everyone to be able to hear
their clock tick. A well made Genesis should run easily on half of the
recommended drive weight, with zero pounds in the counterweight tube.
If a
builder wants to know how much drive weight his clock takes to run, I have him
add enough drive weight to get his clock running and then put a scale on the
floor under the drive weight. When the clock stops with the drive weight
on the scale he can simply read the number of pounds of drive weight required
off of the scale. I then recommend adding back an additional ten percent
of that amount to keep the clock running during humid days.
BTW, be
sure to read over the section on "Depthing" in my FAQ's to help find
and eliminate any residual internal friction that may be left in the clock's
train.
Three of
the very best things a builder can do to get their clock running nicely is 1)
following the Depthing procedure, 2) not get any finish on the tooth surfaces
of the gears, and 3) not add any brass tube bushings unless specifically called
for in the plans.
Enjoy!
Aloha. Clayton